I’m guilty of spending a lot more time in the Eastern Mediterranean than the West these days, mainly down to my love of all things Greek. But the last few years have seen better weather in the Balearics in the shoulder seasons, and I find Spain the best country to explore over the winter.
When planning this recent trip to Menorca, my focus was on the beautiful beaches and coastal hikes, but my highlight ended up being the cities. Menorca is definitely an underrated spot for a city break.
Ok, so Mahon and Ciutadella are more like the size of big towns. If you like big city buzz and endless shopping and nightlife options then Menorca is probably not for you. But if you like exploring small, walkable historic places with no crowds and no rush, you might just love it.
Mahon is also super near the airport so perfect for a relaxed short trip.
When I was browsing hotels, it didn’t take long for the spa at Boutique Hotel Ses Bruixes to catch my eye. I’m a huge spa and thermal circuit fan, especially if they’re atmospheric and aesthetic like this one. Imagine a mini version of the AIRE Ancient Baths, if you’re familiar with that brand. You don’t have to be a hotel guest to use the spa, but you do get a discount on the thermal circuit.
Then I saw their jasmine-filled courtyard and was sold.
I’m in the middle of trying to decorate my apartment at home – a process that feels excruciatingly slow to me. So at the moment I’m particularly enjoying beautiful design hotels, paying attention to every little detail to see what I can take home. And there was plenty to enjoy here – from antique furniture to modern art, eccentric touches to modernist details.
Menorca is rapidly becoming quite the art destination. As well as the Hauser & Wirth art centre on an island in the Mahon Bay, you’ll find numerous small galleries in the back streets. Boutique hotels are filled with interesting works, and the lobby here had copies of magazines like Ursula (the Hauser & Wirth publication), for browsing.
The hotel is located in an old manor house dating back to 1811, belonging first to the church and then a ship’s captain and several generations of notable families. It’s on a street that’s now home to a small cluster of boutique hotels. It was only converted into a hotel in 2014 and is part of the small local Jardi Ses Bruixes Collection. There are 16 rooms spread across 2 buildings, and a few nooks and crannies for relaxing including a lounge-library with fireplace and a courtyard filled with fragrant orange trees, jasmine, bougainvillaea, and potted plants.
The location is a relaxed 5-10 minute walk from the centre of town. As it’s an old building, there is variety in the rooms. There are a few rooftop suites, a handful of smaller, cheaper rooms, and some that look out onto the courtyard. The communal areas are quirkier and retain interesting plenty of historical features.
I stayed in one of the Deluxe Noble rooms, and it was immaculate. It looks just like the pictures on the website. Actually, I’m not sure the pictures do it justice. It’s huge, airy and calm, but warm. It wasn’t quite cold enough for the fireplace in the corner.
The bathroom was stocked with luscious botanical products (including bath salts but no bubble bath) and robes. There’s a kettle and tea/coffee, a water bottle for topping up at the dispenser, a vending machine selling local snacks including beers and breadsticks. Unfortunately no wine though, I think you’ll have to leave the hotel to acquire some (don’t fret, Botiga Xoriguer is only a block away). The bathtub calls out for a glass of wine.
I was here in May and the weather was a bit patchy. Whilst I was in Mahon it rained, which was actually perfect for staying in the hotel room and dunking in the tub. So maybe it’s better to stay here in bad weather when you have the time to enjoy it instead of rushing around the island. Plus the prices are very decent at the edge of shoulder season.
Whilst they serve breakfast in the courtyard and coffees and cakes during the day, it didn’t serve food in the evening when I was there. Shame as the courtyard lit by candlelight sounds magical, perhaps it’s a summer thing.
In hindsight, I wish I’d been a bit more organised for dinner. It was raining so hard that I didn’t want to go far, I got as fas as Es Suis bar for some wine and bikinis (the sandwich, not the swimsuit). There is a restaurant just down the road called Restaurant Ses Forquilles that looks good but you might want to book. The welcome booklet also comes with a few suggestions for delivery but you might need to leave the building for a bottle of wine.
My room was in the same building as SPA Ses Bruixes, which is hidden underneath the main building. As you descend the stairs, it feels as though you’re entering a secret underground world. Built into the cellars, it’s a magical space lit by candlelight. The thermal circuit is 90 minutes and costs just €35 for guests and €55 for non-guests, an absolute steal.
Just looking at the website, any treatment includes 30 minutes of thermal circuit too. This would probably be enough as it’s not huge. There are a few different pools and shower experiences but you could definitely get around the circuit in 30 minutes. Just be aware that the spa is closed on Mondays during winter and shuts completely during January and February.
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The staff were all lovely and very helpful with my ongoing lost passport saga, especially the receptionist.
Breakfast in the morning is served in the courtyard which is also open to non-guests. I’m always happy to see some healthy options on the menu, including yoghurt bowls with fruit and granola (this makes me happy because it infuriates me when you can only order either fruit or granola), smoothies, pancakes, and toast with various toppings. I think I under-ordered though – portions are quite small.
My only minor gripe is that the bed is good but not amazing. It’s by no means uncomfortable, but I didn’t sink into the mattress wanting to never leave. I know these things are subjective, but it feels like something most hotels in this price point get right. Nothing makes me want to book a return visit like a comfortable bed and a delicious breakfast. I really did adore it here and I would definitely come back (especially to the spa), but next time I’d be tempted to try another of Menorca’s lovely boutique hotels first.
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