So many visitors overlook Ciutadella in favour of Menorca’s main city Mahón, a small and handsome harbour city which is conveniently close to the island’s airport. Don’t get me wrong, I like Mahón, but Ciutadella stole my heart.
It’s just under an hour’s drive between them (with regular buses throughout the day). Here’s why it’s worth the journey.
Why go? What’s the vibe?
Ciutadella has quite a different look and feel to Mahón and the other towns on the east coast, which only rose to prominence during British occupation.
Ciutadella is older and feels more Spanish – it was the original capital of the island, which was once ruled by the Moors and the Aragonese.
It has that classic Mediterranean feel with limestone buildings that glow in the early evening light, and reminds me of similar cities in Spain and Italy. Honey-hued backstreets are lined with palaces and mansions. In the afternoons, they empty of locals, leaving only the tourists, so you’ll want to be here in the evenings when it’s abuzz with bars and liveliness as the sun goes down.
Ciutadella is small and classy, with a picturesque harbour and some completely charming streets. I will say that it took me a day or two to ‘get it’ because I hit the Old Town at the wrong time. Like most Spanish cities, it comes alive in the evening and is dead during the afternoon siesta. I recommend at least a couple of days to discover its rhythm. Like all my favourite cities, it’s labyrinthine, sun-drenched, and full of surprises.
It has a hint of elegance and quiet luxe – it’s not falling apart but it has some patina. There are some upscale boutiques and eateries, but not in a loud way. It’s also balanced out by everyday life, at least outside the summer months. And currently, it hasn’t been ruined by an oversaturation of Airbnbs (I almost feel bad raving about it). Package tourists tend to flock to neighbouring beach resort towns instead, leaving Ciutadella to the domestic tourists.
There’s a handful of small boutique hotels at varying price points, but all excellent value compared to elsewhere in Spain or the Western Med, at least outside high season. It feels as though you’re in on a secret. That said, I’m sure house prices here are as insane as anywhere else in the Balearics.
Ciutadella seems like the kind of place that caters to a crowd of loyal devotees.
However, some of the businesses I mention here do close for the winter, something to bear in mind when considering when to visit. In the summer, it’s packed with visiting yachts and daytrippers from the resorts. Shoulder season is perfect. Keep an eye out for the Festival of Sant Joan in late May, a huge multi-day fiesta packed with tradition (and plenty of horses).
The harbour is incredibly scenic and lined with cafes and restaurants, but the buzziest bits are in the streets around the cathedral and the food market so don’t miss that. The harbour is perfect for a sunset aperitivo.
It’s best to orient yourself around the town squares and port. Two big town squares are practically side-by-side and form the municipal heart of the town (Plaça d’es Born and Plaça del Pins). The former is outside the town hall and hosts a market (Mon and Fri), an obelisk, and celebrations. You’ll find municipal bus stops at the latter (inter-island routes have a separate bus station a block away), cafe seatingm and a playground.
The harbour is incredibly scenic and lined with cafes and restaurants, but the buzziest bits are in the streets around the cathedral and the food market so don’t miss that. The harbour is perfect for a sunset aperitivo.
Ciutadella’s population is around 30,000, including its seaside sprawl. A lot of the coastal development in Menorca manages to avoid the big high-rise hotels that you see on Mallorca and the mainland, but most of them do still feel a bit bland (another reason to stay in Ciutadella itself).
The coastal suburbs are generally whitewashed and low-rise, built near some pretty coves, but lacking in atmosphere. The nearest ones are on the city bus lines though, so easy to reach if you fancy a swim, but it’s definitely worth exploring the wider coast for wilder scenery.
History and buildings
The name means “Little Citadel” in Catalan, and the site has been inhabited since ancient times, with clear evidence of Talaiotic settlements. The original fortified settlement is thought to have been established by the Carthaginians. Over the centuries, Ciutadella passed through the hands of the Romans, the Vandals, the Byzantines (briefly), and the Moors. It flourished under Moorish rule, when it was known as Medina Minurka, before eventually coming under Aragonese control in the 13th century.
In 1558, the city was attacked and almost entirely destroyed by Ottoman raiders in an event known today as The Disaster. Ciutadella was burned, its people were killed or enslaved, and it had to be rebuilt practically from scratch. It later rose from the ruins under Catalan rule, gaining new fortifications, churches, and its distinctive appearance. The Gothic cathedral was built in the 14th century on the site of the former mosque. Although Mahón is now the administrative centre of Menorca (a change made by the British in 1722), Ciutadella remains the island’s religious, historical, and spiritual heart.
There’s more than enough drama in the city’s long history to warrant taking a guided tour – you can take a 2 hour tour for €22. Alternatively, you could head to the Diocesan Museum, set within a former 17th-century Augustinian friary with Baroque cloisters and the adjoining Els Socors church. It’s just as imposing from the outside as it is atmospheric inside, housing the city’s main collection of local art and artefacts. The museum also offers midday guided tours that are reputedly very entertaining. It’s open Tuesday to Saturday, and the incense drifting from Els Socors often perfumes the surrounding streets.
At the back of the harbour you’ll find the imposing Bastió de Sa Font, part of the 17th-century defensive walls. It’s currently used for museum storage and closed to the public, but you can view the museum’s permanent exhibition at Can Saura, a mansion built in 1675 and open year-round. If the tour at the Diocesan Museum doesn’t appeal and you only want to visit one museum, this is the one to choose.
Some of the city’s finest noble mansions open their doors during the summer months – among them Ca’n Oliver, Can Salort, Can Salort XVIII, Cal Bisbe, and Cas Comte. Menorca was historically an agricultural island, and Ciutadella’s grand townhouses once belonged to its landowning elite.
The Old Port occupies a long natural inlet and is home to yachts, excursion boats, and traditional fishing vessels. As you follow the harbour inland you’ll come across a few nightlife spots. The port is watched over by the vast city walls and Ciutadella Town Hall, which incorporates medieval structures but has a largely 19th-century appearance. Its façade has a distinctly Moorish influence and is lined with date palms. There’s also a small tourist information office here.
Another building worth noting is the Castell de Sant Nicolau, a 17th-century hexagonal watchtower guarding the entrance to the harbour. The walk out to the tower and back is a classic route for a sunset stroll.
If you’re on a flying visit to Ciutadella, start at the port, walk up Carrer Portal de Mar to Plaça des Pins and the town hall, then continue down Carrer Major des Born to the cathedral. From there, carry on along Carrer Josep to Plaça Nova, then loop around to the Municipal Market and the Diocesan Museum. This route will ensure you hit the highlights.
Is there a beach?
Sort of. There’s the small Cala Degollador (a small sandy beach at the nub of a rocky inlet) but it’s right by a main road. The sand is gravelly, the water is shallow, and it’s not too far from the ferry port, but the cove itself is pretty enough. Better for a quick swim than a whole day at the beach, especially when there are so many beautiful beaches within an easy drive or boat trip.
I preferred Cala en Busquets and Cala des Frares which are on the north side of the city, about 20 minutes or foot and 15 by bus.
A bit further by bus to the south are Cala Santandria, Ca Saleta, and Cala Blanca, and Cala en Blanes to the north. These are all on the municipal city bus lines. During the shoulder and summer months, buses also link Ciutadella with the bigger resort towns Cala Galdana and Sant Thomas (about an hour away), as well as some of the more popular remote beaches.
There are also buses to Cala Morell on the north coast, although if you want to explore further along to the protected coastline you’ll need a car.
If you haven’t been to the SW corner of Menorca before, I definitely recommend exploring around Cala Galdana. The coastal scenery is magnificent, with craggy limestone cliffs, pine forests, and undeveloped coves. There are some lovely hikes. The best beaches are:
- Cala Macarella and Macarelleta
- Cala Mitjana and Mitjaneta
- Cala Turqueta
- Cala Trebalugar
- Cala Excorxada/Fustam
Excursion boats run trips from Ciutadella and from neighbouring resort areas like Cala en Bosc. You can walk along the harbour in Ciutadella and talk to the operators (a good idea if the weather is patchy). There are no shortage of boats, including traditional lauts, although not all of them offer shared boats especially outside the summer. If you want to book ahead here are some examples with the boat Menorca Blava:
- Half day Coves and Beaches with optional paella
- Half Day – 2 Beaches with Snorkelling and SUP (smaller boat)
- Full Day with Paella Lunch
Paddle Tour Menorca run Paddle & Snorkel, and Sunset and Snorkel trips, as well as private trips on their rib for groups and couples.
Group and private catamaran sails are available with Ocean Cat.
There are a couple of dive centres in the area; Dive Inn Menorca is located in Ciutadella Port. Kayaking is available in several nearby resorts.
What else is there to see beyond the beach?
Spa lovers should check out the hammam Gessami Banys Arabs spa.
If you’ve got a car, you can check out the megalithic funerary remains at Naveta d’Es Tudons which are outside the city, and the intriguing Lithica. This was once the quarry where most of the city’s limestone was sourced. Now it’s a cultural space with gardens and Tomb Raider vibes (it’s a great photo location).
For lunch, drop in at Nonna Bazaar for farm-to-table food or Binitord Bodega for wine tasting, and foror dinner, Coral in Cala En Blanes has sunset views.
What was the best thing to eat?
Most people, during their time in Ciutadella, will have a sunset drink by the harbour somewhere like Cafe Balears or Club Nautic, and perhaps a seafood dinner too. You can find the famous island dish, lobster caldereta, in most of the restaurants around the port. The lobster here is known to be are particularly sweet, but also look out for clams, cuttlefish, and red mullet. Restaurant S’Amarador is a reliable choice. Booking is advised, especially in the summer the harbour area is absolutely rammed with visiting yachts.
The best meal I had was at Mexican-Mediterranean fusion restaurant Katu by Smoix Restaurant. The taste of the smoked mescal and fig leaf cocktail will live with me for a long time. It was so good I obviously forgot to take photos, except of desert.
I recommend Nibs Healthy Bar for brunch in shady outdoors seating overlooking a fountain on Plaça d’Artrutx. There are a few traditional bakery-cafes around here so it became my designated breakfast spot.
Fun places for a drink include Jazzbah, Gioia Aperitivo, and Moriarty Gintonic Club.
You’ll find lots of stores selling local produce and foodies on Carrer Major des Born. For fresh ingredients, head to the Mercat Municipal for ingredients. There are some interesting restaurants and bars around here such as Bar Ulisses, but my favourite find is the patisserie and gelaterie Can Padet. It focuses on quality ice cream made with intriguing combinations of local ingredients such as strawberry and basil, olive and fennel, and mandarin and calamansi (I love it when I come across a food word I’ve never heard before – this one is a type of citrus that grows on the island). I went back several times but sadly never had enough space in my stomach for the delicious-looking patisserie treats. This is definitely one of those places to discover at the start of your trip rather than the end.
Where to stay?
For me, this is one of the best things about Ciutadella – there are SO many nice boutique hotels which are an absolute bargain in the shoulder season, and it’s a bit cheaper than Mahon.
€€€€ :
- Faustino Gran Relais & Chateaux – the dreamiest stay in the city, this 5-star hotel occupies 3 former palaces and has a spa and immaculate rooftop views of the cathedral and port.
- Hotel Can Araya – sophisticated small townhouse hotel with whitewashed decor and a hammam.
- S’Hotelet d’es Born Suites & Spa – calming neutrals and a bijou spa.
- Hotel Morvedra Nou Adults Only – a 20-minute drive outside the city but one of the island’s best luxury finca stays.
- Hotel Tres Sants – sadly closed.
If a pool is important, there are also several large resort hotels in the area towards the port such as Hotel Seth Port de Ciutadella – modern 4-star resort (has both indoor and outdoor pools).
€€€ – Crisp minimalist rooms in the Old Town at mid-range prices:
- 120 Boutique Hotel
- Sodium Boutique Hotel
- Nao Catedral Boutique Hotel
- Hotel Nou Sant Antoni
- S’Enclova Petit Hotel
- 971 Hotel Con Encanto
- Hotel Esparteria
€ – For wallet-friendly choices, look beyond the Old Town:
- Hotel Patricia – has had a recent revamp and has great facilities for the price (including an outdoor pool) and a good breakfast, it’s not in the Old Town but is a short walk from the town hall.
- Hotel Alfons – excellent value, near the bus stop.
- Hostal Menurka – excellent value, near the bus stop.
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How to get there and around?
Ciutadella also has a ferry port with connections, mainly to Barcelona and Alcudia on Mallorca. Prices are high though, it’s generally cheaper to fly so island hopping in the Balearics isn’t really a thing.
The city is a 40-minute drive from the airport, and 50 minutes to Mahón, on an easy road that cuts right through the middle of the island. There are direct buses from both the airport and Mahón, but if your flight arrives in the latter half of the evening you might need to spring for a taxi which is approximately €80.
The city is flat and walkable with frequent city buses to areas outside the city. It’s flat enough and quiet enough that cycling is appealing even to a non-cyclist like me.
Read more about Menorca:
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