Where to Stay on Lesvos: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide

Thinking of heading to the Greek island of Lesvos this year?

This island in the Northeast Aegean is known for its traditional Greek seaside resorts, delicious food and drink, and unique volcanic landscape.

It’s not a place for glitzy nightlife or luxury hotels. But if you’re looking for somewhere a bit under the radar, that captures the simple essence of Greek holidays from decades past, then Lesvos is a great pick.

It’s a big island though. Here’s a guide to help you figure out the best place to stay in Lesvos, be it a comfortable boutique hotel or a budget beach stay.

This guide will cover:

a shortlist of the very best hotels and accommodation
a quick overview of the island and what you need to know before you go
how to get there and around
a rundown of all the seaside towns, from west to east, and the best places to stay in each one

Shortlist – the Best Places to Stay in Lesvos

Standout Hotels:

Eressian Hotel & Spa (near Skala Eressos)
Loriet Hotel (near Mytilini)
Little Bird Lesvos (Petra, sea view)
Eleia Seafront Villas (Petra, sea view)
Oikies Small Elegant Houses (near Mytilini)

Swanky Villas:

Aerial shot of Petra showing its church-topped rock and terracotta roofs of the old town. — Petra from the air.

The Best Places to Go for Every Type of Traveller

Best Places for Nightlife: Molyos, Mytilini, Plomari
Best for Activities and Daytrips: Molyvos/Petra, Skala Eressos
Best Old Town: Molyvos, Plomari
Best Places for Sandy Beaches: Anaxos, Skala Kalloni, Vatera
Best Quiet Unspoilt Places: Skala Sikiminias, Sigri, Agios Isidoros
Most Romantic Places for Couples: Skala Sikiminias, Skala Eressos
Best Areas for Nature: Skala Kalloni and the Wetlands, Gera Peninsula, Petrified Forest Geopark
Best Family-Friendly Beaches: Petra, Anaxos, Agios Isidoros
Mountain Village Not to Miss: Agiassos
Underrated: Plomari, Sigri

Lesvos – What You Need To Know

Lesvos isn’t the kind of island that attracts first-timers to Greece. Most visitors have already tried a few islands and know what they like. Although there are relatively few flights, it does have an international airport which connects it with the UK, the Netherlands, France, Belgium, and Slovenia amongst others.

Read more: Mytilini Airport Guide

Tourism here is low-key compared to other Greek islands with an international airport. Package tour operators have been coming here for a few decades and the established resort areas are the Molyvos-Petra-Anaxos bay, and Skala Kallonis.

But the resort areas are still quiet and traditional, so Lesvos tends to attract an older crowd who can make do without clubs and noisy entertainment. It’s also very popular with Greek tourists, especially in late July and August.

Accommodation is mostly traditional and family-run apartments and hotels. It’s good value compared to other European destinations. However, if you’re used to a higher standard then you might struggle here. Higher-end comforts (such as decent mattresses) are hard to come by. A few stylish villas and hotels are starting to pop up, but the service doesn’t always match the design, locations can be obscure, and they can feel like a cynical cash grab. But if all you need is a bed, a shower, and a balcony then you’ll be fine here.

Although there are a few trendy beach bars here and there, mainly catering to the local youth, the beach scene in Lesvos is still delightfully unchanged. Sun loungers are usually free to customers of the attached cafe/taverna.

A rental car is handy here. Distances are long and bus services are limited. Most tourist destinations are at least an hour from the airport. Drives across the island will inevitably involve going via Kalloni. If you’re happy to stick to the area that you’re staying then you can make do without one, but a rental car will give you access to untouched beaches and traditional villages.

Read more: How to Get Around Lesvos By Bus

Red sands of Tsonia Beach. — Tsonia Beach.

Lesvos has a vast number of beaches, many of them undeveloped. Most are a mix of coarse dark volcanic sand and shingle. Pebbles are red, white, and grey so the beaches appear different colours according to the conditions. Some sand is sparkly and soft. The water is clean and clear and the snorkelling is fantastic.

Parts of the island can feel very barren, particularly in the west, but much of the interior is covered in vast olive groves. For centuries, Lesvos was a centre of olive oil (and soap) production. It’s also the spiritual home of ouzo and there are several distilleries on the island.

Both the airport and main port are at the capital Mytilini on the east coast. There’s also a port at Sigri on the west coast used for additional services in the peak summer. There are daily ferries to Athens and less frequently to some of the surrounding islands. You can also take a day trip or travel across to Turkey.

Mytilini

In my opinion Mytilini is one of the most underrated cities in Greece. It has a population of just over 30,000 people and is a vibrant university and port town.

It’s usually overlooked by visitors to Lesvos who flock to the seaside resorts, but it’s worth spending a day or two if you enjoy busy and slightly gritty places.

The focal point in Mytilini is the main harbour with its impressive Orthodox church. One block back you’ll find narrow alleyways home to a dense tangle of tavernas, cafes, and bars. Keep walking to the other side of the port and you’ll find a promenade which takes you past the city’s main beach (small price for entrance), pine-clad Tsamakia Park, and the remains of the 6th-century Mytilini Castle (one of the largest in Europe!). Walk back to the harbour via Ermou which is full of creative independent shops.

There isn’t an abundance of hotels in Mytilini but there are a few established (i.e. dated but comfortable) 3-star hotels along the harbour catering to travellers catching the ferries:

ISSA Hotel is a stylish hostel renovation with private rooms and dorms.

If you’re staying longer and don’t mind being further out of town then there are a few hotels with a pool along the coast:

handsome Loriet Hotel set in a historic seaside mansion
modern 4-star resort Heliotrope Hotel
modern suites in a country-style villa Oikies Small Elegant Houses (private plunge pools available)

Mythical Coast Wellness Retreat is a brand-new hotel south of the airport with stylish design and a spa but lacking quality service and details. Not bad for a night at the start or end of a trip if you need parking but it wouldn’t be my choice of location for a longer stay as there’s nothing much in the area.

Transfer time: 10 minutes from Mytilini Airport

Read more: A Quick Guide to Mytilini

Molyvos

Molyvos is the heart of the tourist industry on the island – one look and you’ll know why. It has a very handsome historic harbour town with a hilltop castle andy shady (Instagram-famous) wisteria-topped lanes leading down to the port. On the other side is a narrow pebble beach with an old olive press factory and chimney (now a hotel) and a trendy beach bar.

Tourism here is established but somehow hasn’t taken over. It manages to strike a perfect balance.

Dining at one of the harbourfront restaurants is one of the must-do’s in Lesvos. Standards are high and you’ll often find live Greek music in the evening.

Molyvos has a more cosmopolitan feel than its neighbouring beach resorts, Petra and Anaxos, but it doesn’t feel snobby and attracts a variety of visitors, including plenty of locals.

The Seahorse Hotel is ever-popular right on the harbourfront. The majority of hotels are in the beach area though. Hotel Molyvos I and The Olive Press are right by the beach.

If you prefer a hotel with more amenities look further out – some of the resorts towards neighbouring Eftalou have shuttles into Molyvos, and you’ll find a few sleek new villas like Mont D’Olives.

Transfer time: 1 hour 20 minutes from Mytilini Airport

For more information read: A Quick Guide to Molyvos

Petra

Petra is the biggest beach resort on Lesvos and is just a stone’s throw from Molyvos (well, 10 minutes in the car). It’s the main destination for thousands of visitors to the island.

It has a wide beach which is a mix of sand and shingle, and a long row of beachfront tavernas where you can dine right by the sea. Most of these establishments also have sun loungers free for customer use.

In the middle of the village is a small old town area complete with a church-topped rock which, if you squint, looks like something from Meteora. It even has a few shady wisteria-covered shopping alleyways.

Petra mainly attracts older tourists and families looking for good value self-catering holidays. There are a few beach bars at the northern end of the beach serving a younger (and noisier) crowd, but Petra is mostly an old-school and unpretentious resort.

All in all, Petra has something for everyone. But transport connections to Molyvos aren’t as frequent as you might think considering it’s so close, and beach lovers might prefer the sandier shore at Anaxos.

Villa Vicky Studios for a friendly stay with a sea-view pool.
Nikis Suites is a complex of modern adults-only apartments.

Transfer time: 1 hour 10 minutes from Mytilini Airport

For more information read: A Quick Guide to Petra

Anaxos

Anaxos is the next beach along from Petra and is its little sister. It has a sandier beach and watersports operator so might be a better option for families, although it’s not as well served for excursions and activities.

As with Petra, there’s an abundance of beachfront tavernas with sun loungers for your use, and tamarisk trees along the beach for shade. It also has a handful of laid-back cocktail bars.

Up on the headland at the north end of the beach are a couple of stylish places to stay:

If you prefer simple rooms:

Transfer time: 1 hour 10 minutes from Mytilini Airport

For more information read: A Quick Guide to Anaxos

Skala Sikamineas

Skala Sikamineas is a tiny and picturesque seaside village on the north coast. Surrounded by steep forested mountains, it has an isolated feel.

There are just a few places to eat and drink here, and even fewer places to stay. It’s probably a bit small as a base for a holiday, but a night or two is perfect for those who enjoy peace, quiet, and romance.

You can also visit on a boat trip from Molyvos or Petra (I thoroughly recommend). For more info read: Boat Trips from Molyvos – Review + Photos

Transfer time: 1 hour 15 minutes from Mytilini Airport

Skala Kallonis

The town of Kalloni is situated in the middle of the island and at the centre of many road routes, so you’re likely to pass through it at some point. Kalloni itself is one of the biggest towns on the island and is a modern commercial hub. It’s probably not going to be of much interest unless you’re looking for a long term stay.

But 4km to the south is Skala Kallonis, the nearest beach village. It sits at the top of the Gulf of Kalloni, a large lagoon that feels like a lake.

This is the middle of the wetlands area and so is a prime spot for birdwatchers. It’s sparse and sleepy, with a small harbour and a cluster of extremely laid-back hotels set amongst lush grounds. A bicycle is perfect for exploring the area. As it’s in the centre of the island, it’s also a great base for striking out by car.

It has a sandy beach and is probably the shallowest and calmest place to swim on the island.

Skala Kallonis is especially popular with the Dutch and several of its hotels are available through Jet2 and TUI.

Transfer time: 55 minutes from Mytilini Airport

Skala Eressos

Skala Eressos is a little gem on the far western coast of Lesvos. It takes a long time to get here, perhaps why it has an edge-of-the-world feel. Long a favourite of alternative and bohemian types, it’s also one of the most important LGBT+ communities in Greece thanks to its heritage as the birthplace of the ancient poet Sappho.

Its beachfront is lined with distinctive and colourful wooden platforms housing bars and tavernas. Unlike most resorts, the beach is mostly unorganised – there’s just one small section with sun loungers to rent next to the watersports operator.

As with most places on Lesvos, the emphasis here is on simple pleasures. However, you’ll find more international food (think falafel and burritos) and music (reggae) here than in other spots on the island.

It attracts a diverse crowd including older European women, local families, and younger metropolitan Greeks.

Hotel Kyma is a 2-star with immaculate sea views
Heliotopos for great design at the edge of the village

At the far end of the beach, a 15-minute walk from the main area, is the small resort Aeolian Village which is currently linked to watersports holiday operator Mark Warner.

A short drive inland is the larger village Eressos, livelier off-season and home to the lovely small boutique Eressian Hotel & Spa. Non-guests can book here for a hammam session or massage.

Transfer time: 1 hour 45 minutes from Mytilini Airport

Read more: A Quick Guide to Skala Eressos

Sigri

Sigri is a small fishing village located north of Skala Eressos which is notable for its location within the Petrified Forest Geopark. The Natural History Museum of the Petrified Forest is located here, and it also has a castle.

This part of the coastline is very quiet and isolated so it’s perfect if you have a hire car and enjoy discovering empty beaches and fish tavernas. If you find the Molyvos-Petra-Anaxos area too touristy then Sigri is a worthy alternative.

In the summer the harbour receives car ferries from Athens.

Just outside the village is Lesvos Tower House Komninos, one of the most beautiful guesthouses on the island. It’s built and decorated in a traditional style and has a small pool.

Transfer time: 1 hour 35 minutes from Mytilini Airport

Plomari

Plomari (or Plomarion) is the second biggest settlement on Lesvos and is the capital of ouzo. There’s an Ouzo Museum on the way in, several distilleries, and an annual festival.

It’s also a working fishing town. Signs of gentrification are beginning to appear (fancy villas, nice boutiques) but it’s still very traditional and not manicured for tourists. Some might find it a little rough around the edges.

Located on the south coast in the middle of the Gera Peninsula, the landscape around Plomari is hilly and mountainous. There are some spectacular beaches such as Vatera, Melinta, and Tarti which are appreciated by weekenders and the mainland but less well known amongst internationals. You’ll need a car to get the best from the area. Boat trips from the harbour.

There aren’t too many hotels in Plomari itself, but a few exceptional holiday rentals:

On the coastal road towards Agios Isidoros is the contemporary hotel Porto Plomari. With its impeccable design and seafront location it could easily become a destination hotel on the island but still has a few kinks to iron out service-wise. In the meantime, the location and interiors still make it a great spot if you get a good price and don’t come with sky-high expectations.

Transfer time: 1 hour from Mytilini airport

Agios Isidoros

Agios Isidoros is Plomari’s nearest beach resort area and is something of a hidden gem. It has a wide pebble beach and crystal clear water. You’ll find more hotels here than in Plomari town, and a few eating establishments with sun loungers on the beach.

It takes 30 minutes to walk into Plomari or less than 10 minutes in the car.

Transfer time: 1 hour from Mytilini airport

If you’re exploring the area you should also make a beeline for the stunning beaches at Vatera, Tarti and Melinta. All have a few rooms for overnight stays.

Tarti:

Melinta:

Vatera:

Read more about Lesvos:

A Quick Guide to Mytilini

A Quick Guide to Skala Eressos

A Quick Guide to Molyvos

A Quick Guide to Petra

A Quick Guide to Anaxos

Mytilini Airport Guide

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