If you’re looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of Athens for a short trip, I have the perfect suggestion for you – hop on a ferry to the little island of Agistri.
I was lucky enough to spend a year in Athens back in 2015, I had an amazing time and Athens is still one of my favourite places in the world. During that year I didn’t actually travel around the islands all that much, but one thing I did do was take frequent weekend trips to Agistri.
If you’ve not heard of Agistri, it belongs to the Argo-Saronic island group. These are the closest islands to Athens and perfect for a day trip or weekend trip. Agistri is the least-well known of the group, but one of the easiest to reach from Pireaus. It doesn’t have a picturesque harbour like Hydra or Poros, and it’s not the kind of place you go for shopping or nightlife (although it does have a late bar or two, and like everywhere in Greece the summer months are lively), but it’s pretty popular with Athenians for its lush nature and simple charms. It has a couple of great beaches – not great as in ‘most amazing beaches in Greece’ great, but great in a peaceful-soul way.
There are two main villages on Agistri – Skala and Megalochori (sometimes known as Mylos for its windmill). I believe the car ferries call at Skala, and the fast ferries at Mylos. I personally prefer to catch the small open-deck car ferry (pictured below) as I like to sit on the deck and they’re a little cheaper. But there’s not too much difference between the two types of ferry, and there are plenty of connections throughout the day, even in winter. Some ferries call first at Aegina so it’s easy to combine the two on a mini island-hopping adventure, and there’s also a smaller Agistri-Aegina boat that leaves from Megalochori.
I use Ferryhopper to check ferry times and these days I usually buy my tickets on the app too. A single from Pireaus to Agistri on the car ferry, currently run by Achaios, is €11.91 this year.
As with the other Argo-Saronic islands like Hydra and Poros, a day trip is totally possible but once you slow down to island time you’ll undoubtedly want to stay overnight and watch that sun go down. Especially as the last ferry is not actually that late, it’s often around 6pm. I’ve more than once ended up making impromptu overnight plans.
My favourite bit is getting off ferry at Skala – take a left and walk up the little lane rather than going right towards the village. You’ll be enveloped by the dense sound of cicadas and the fragrance of pine. The sea is a vibrant turquoise and you can see the blue-domed church of Skala on the other side of the harbour. It feels a million miles away from the busy city amd to me the beaches on Agistri have a touch of the Mamma Mia magic. Agistri isn’t known for its architecture but a lot of the buildings these days are whitewashed with blue windows and tiled roofs.
If you keep walking along this lane there are a couple of different hotels which are some of my favourite simple places to stay in Greece. They’re sea-facing but don’t have a beach, although some have rocky platforms by the water.
Keep going beyond the hotels and you’ll come to a pine forest and, beyond that, Chalkiada Beach. This used to be a hippie (aka no clothing) beach and people would camp there and in the forest, but the authorities have cracked down on wild camping over the last few years. I’ve got many fond memories of spending the night on that beach, surrounded by starlight, bioluminescence, and snoring hippies. The only way down is a somewhat perilous climb and I’m still impressed I never fell, even in the dark after a few beers.
Reminiscing aside, it’s a pretty walk through the forest and has a great view at the end, even if you don’t go down to the beach. The hotels along the lane all do great food too.
Agistri is a great place for low-key wandering and hikes as it’s small and shady. There’s a board with the island’s hiking trails in Skala near the port, but I also recommend using an app like AllTrails or Komoot. One of the longer loops of the island will take all day.
There are also bicycles for hire in Skala – ideal if you want to travel frequently between Skala and Megalochori, which is a dull and flat road. Beyond Megalochori it’s hillier – a scooter or e-bike is better for going further around the island.
Agistri’s bus service, like most Greek islands, varies by the time of year. In the off-season, you’ll probably only find links between Megalochori and Skala, timed to coincide with the ferry arrivals. In the summer, you can also catch the bus to pretty bays around the island – Dragonera, Aponisos, and Limenaria. I would check before you head out if there’s a cafe open, if not best take your own supplies.
The main bus stop in Skala is outside the church.
On my last trip to Agistri, I stayed at Aktaion Beach Boutique Hotel which is right by the beach and the port in Skala. Transfer time doesn’t get much shorter than this! The hotels along the beach (including its neighbours the Alexandra and the Oasis Beach Hotel) have all had a minimalist boho glow-up. Some have pools and jacuzzis, wellness treatments, and waterfront dining. Pretty perfect, if you ask me.
The beach in Skala has golden sands and shallow sea, and curves around the church and outwards in a spit. It’s ideal for kids and is organised, but I’ve never seen it too packed. Most of the other beaches around the island (there aren’t really that many) are a coarse sand/shingle mix and surrounded by pretty pine-clad scenery.
There are a couple of places in Skala where you can find boat rentals, kayak rental and tours, horse riding, and scuba diving (there are a number of wreck sites in the south of the island).
Megalochori (pictured below) has a small pretty harbour, a handful of restaurants, and a few lovely places to stay like NOIMA Casa Unico and La Vie Luxury Suites.
It’s quieter and has more of a traditional fishing village tourism, if you’re in Skala I wouldn’t necessarily go out of your way to visit it unless you want to try the restaurants. But if you’re exploring the island you’ll pass through it on your way anyway. There is a beach here but it’s narrow, shingley in places, and right next to the road.
Both villages have plenty of traditional apartments. If you’re looking in the backstreets there might be a short uphill walk.
If you’re looking for a more precise itinerary (although I don’t think you need one on Agistri – it’s only 5 square miles), my ideal 48 hours would look something like this:
- Arrive to Skala AM
- Walk to Chalkiada or Skliri for a swim
- Lunch at Rosy’s Little Village or Alkyoni
- Bus, scooter, or e-bike to explore the other side of the island
- Dinner in Skala
- Hotel breakfast
- Swim and massage
- Lunch at To Mantraki in Megalochori
- Ferry back to Athens PM
If you’re trying to decide between Aegina and Agistri for a short trip, I would recommend Agistri for nature/beach/swimming and Aegina if you like to see ‘stuff’. Aegina does have some nice beaches but they’re not near the port, whereas in Agistri all the best bits are right there in Skala and you only have to leave if you feel like exploring the rest of the island.
Read more:
Where Are the Whitewashed Villages in Greece?
Athens’ Best Budget Boutique Hotels
7 Surprisingly Cheap Places to Stay in Greece
Image credits: All images © The Mediterranean Traveller