I’ve now been to nearly all of the Greek islands with direct flights from the UK, including Rhodes multiple times over the years. Overall, I’d describe it as an island with amazing highlights and plenty of scenic corners, but it’s not my favourite base for a longer trip. Allow me to explain.
My favourite trip was probably a sunny couple of weeks I spent in Rhodes Town one April. I lucked out with the weather (it was warm enough for this Brit to swim in the sea). It wasn’t too busy, and explorations around the island were leisurely.
I’ve also been to Rhodes in the summer a few times and found it too hot and busy, although I guess it depends on the purpose of your trip. If you just want a fly-and-flop holiday then hot is fine! Flights to Rhodes are usually pretty cheap from where I live (near London Stansted), so it’s a useful entry point to the Dodecanese and I tend to use it as a stopping off point now, but I always spend a few days in the Old Town and do a bit of research for this site.
The Pros
Rhodes Town
Rhodes Old Town is hard to beat for history – it has one of the best-preserved medieval old towns in Europe (it’s UNESCO-listed). Yes, it’s busy and kinda full of tourist tat, but you can always find quiet backstreets and beautiful vantage points. Even though I’ve spent plenty of time here, there always seems to be more to explore.
Outside the old city walls is the New Town which has a couple of beaches, an abundance of modern hotels, the commercial zone, and bags of nightlife. The beaches are both pebble/shingle but good for swimming and sunbathing – pick a beach bar, or just go for a dip after a hot and busy day exploring.
It’s a fun city, rather than one with a relaxing and romantic vibe (although this is very dependent on which time of year you visit). I’d say it’s one of the best places in the Greek islands for a city break (along with Chania on Crete).
If you’re wondering how it compares to Chania though, I’d say it’s busier, more varied, and not quite as bougie. Of the two, I prefer Chania. The architecture is very different though, an excellent case to visit both.
All the History
There has been a settlement on the site of Rhodes Town since 408BC, but a lot of what you see in the Old Town today dates to when the Knights of St John occupied the island (1309 – 1523) and fortified the city. The city walls are still largely intact – you can take a walk around the outside – as are some of the most important structures including the Palace of the Grand Masters, and the Great Hospital. There are also examples of Gothic and Ottoman architecture throughout the Old Town.
You don’t need to be a history nerd to appreciate the Old Town, it’s a fascinating and atmospheric place for a wander. But, if you are into history, it’s well worth taking a walking tour like this one.
But it doesn’t end there. There’s a small ancient acropolis (hilltop site) outside Rhodes Town, one at Lindos, and ancient ruins at Kamiros. You could fill several days just visiting the remains of crusader castles – check out Archangelos, Asklepeiou, Feraklos, Kritinia, and Monolithos for starters.
And for something a bit different, there’s Mussolini’s abandoned villa at Profitis Ilias (Mussolini himself didn’t actually end up staying here – it was planned for his retirement – but his advisor did live here for a while). Rhodes was occupied by the Italians from 1912-1943, and they left a number of notable art deco and modernist buildings in their wake, chief amongst them Rhodes Casino and Kallithea Springs.
What you won’t find is the Colossus of Rhodes – a massive bronze statue of sun god Helios which was one of the ancient wonders of the world. It only lasted just over 50 years before being toppled in an earthquake. You can find the site though, at the entrance to Mandraki Harbour in Rhodes Town (now one of the doe statues stands there).
Lindos
Speaking of Lindos, you have to visit this GORGEOUS village. I’ve been to nearly 40 Greek Islands now and it’s still up there as one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen. It’s got some of the best sandy beaches on the island, turquoise waters, hilltop ruins, a dramatic bay, a picturesque chapel, and whitewashed buildings scattered across the foothill of its acropolis.
It’s a very popular day trip destination so don’t expect to have it to yourself, but it’s still a delight to wander around. It has some classy shopping and nice bars. In short, it’s rather lovely, and I always pop in when I’m back in Rhodes. If you can afford to stay in one of the more expensive hotels here then I absolutely would, though personally I’d go for one with a pool so that you’ve got outdoors space for when you need to escape the crowds.
Read more: A Quick Guide to Lindos, The Prettiest Village on Rhodes
Tsambika
Rhodes has quite a varied landscape and this includes its beaches. Some are sandy, but many (especially the ones around the main resort areas) are shingle-y. My favourite beach is the big sands at Tsambika, where you can also climb up to the Byzantine monastery that overlooks it.
It’s not just a scenic spot though, it’s a pilgrimage site known for several miracles and is especially popular with those suffering from fertility problems. The story goes that a Turkish Pasha’s wife, who was struggling to conceive, prayed at the chapel, ate the wick of the vigil lamp, and subsequently became pregnant. The Pasha had some doubts over his wife’s fidelity, but the baby was born holding the wick and all was forgiven.
The Prices
One benefit of Rhodes being such a popular destination is that all the competition helps keep the prices down. If you’re on a budget, you’ll find plenty of accommodation options. The high-rise budget hotels in the New Town are particularly good value (although expect it to be full of groups of Scandinavian teenagers on the lash in the summer). Competition means excursions are very reasonably priced. Resort hotels all the way down the coast are mostly renovated and modern and represent great value (I’d still recommend half board over all-inclusive in Greece though, as the food is usually better outside than in).
With that said, expect prices in the Old Town and in Lindos to be a bit higher.
Lots To Do
It’s easy to get around the coast and the main sites using a combination of local buses, day trips, and boat trips. If you’re an active traveller who enjoys activities and getting out and about during the day, there’s plenty on Rhodes to keep you occupied.
As well as a day trip to Lindos, I definitely recommend doing the boat trip to Symi which is one of the most beautiful islands I’ve ever seen.
Boat trips to Anthony Quinn Bay and Kallithea Springs are also popular. There are so many boats that offer different combinations on their itineraries, you’ll find a few on Getyourguide and Viator but generally speaking it’s not necessary to book ahead. Most of them leave from Mandraki Harbour in Rhodes Town, or you can book through your accommodation or a travel agency in the resort that you’re staying (and it will usually include transfers).
Back on the island, visiting the Seven Springs and Butterfly Valley is a good way to escape the heat for somewhere cool and shady for a few hours. June is the best time to see the butterflies.
If you have a rental car you can also visit Mussolini’s abandoned villa in the middle of the island. This part, and the west coast, is forested and hilly. It’s the more beautiful part of the island. I’d also visit the vineyards around Emborio, the scenic viewpoint at Monolithos (pictured above), and the beach at.
Rhodes Town has plenty of nightlife. The Old Town is full of classy bars, whereas the New Town has more of a tourist strip/Spring Break vibe – as does the infamous resort Faliraki (which has calmed down a lot).
Easy to Get There and Around
Along with Crete and Corfu, Rhodes must be one of the easiest islands to reach from Europe. It has plenty of direct flights. There are ferries from Athens but they’re usually overnight and not that cheap due to the long distance – flights are the better options. I’ve found flights from Athens from as little as £11 before.
The bus service on Rhodes is pretty good for tourist purposes. Most of the coastal resorts in Rhodes are in a line down the east coast, served by plenty of buses – although the further south you go, the less buses there are. Some of the tourist attractions are also served by bus (like the Seven Springs) and there’s also a free bus to the water park.
For more information check out: How to Get Around Rhodes By Bus
You can also reach a surprising number of islands for a day trip by ferry thanks to the Dodekanisos Seaways timetable – I’ve written a post about this: Island Daytrips from Rhodes By Ferry. Symi is by far the easiest as it has very frequent ferries throughout the day (as well as excursion boats), but Chalki and Kastellorizo are also stunning and have a similar vibe.
It Has A Long Season
Rhodes is one of the most southerly Greek Islands, and also one of the driest and busiest. Weather in the shoulder seasons is reliably hot and dry. This means that seasonal flights to Rhodes tend to start earlier and finish later than other islands (except for Crete). It also receives cruise ship visitors outside the summer. If you head to a quieter island in April, May, or October then you might find beach businesses are closed for the season, and buses to tourist destinations have stopped running, but on Rhodes there’s still plenty open for tourists and you’re quite likely to find beach weather.
The Cons
The Beaches
Beach preference is a very personal thing, but I have to say that Rhodes is not my favourite of the main islands for beaches. With the exception of Lindos and Pefkos, many of the beaches in the main coastal resorts are a greyish shingle or a dark sand. The landscape is dry with very little shade or greenery.
Of course, if you’re a pool person this doesn’t matter at all – Rhodes has a huge choice of hotels with pools.
My favourite area for swimming is at Gennadi-Kiotari where the beach consists of small multicoloured pebbles rather than shingle, and it gets deep quite quickly which is perfect for a cooling dip. There are also long stretches of unorganised beach.
The beaches at Lindos are amazing but it gets an INSANE number of day trippers, and you’ll pay a pretty price for sun loungers.
I’ve listed my favourite beaches here: 10 Most Beautiful Beaches in Rhodes
Overdeveloped Coast
The east coast of Rhodes, and also the west coast between the airport and Rhodes Town, is lined with suburban and coastal sprawl and large hotels. If you’re used to holidaying in places like the Spanish Costas, Mallorca, or the north coast of Crete then you might not mind it, and if you’re looking for all-inclusives or modern resort hotels then there’s plenty of choice for you. It’s not short on amenities, convenience, and value.
But the cost of this development is big crowds at the popular spots, and a more commercial vibe. It’s difficult to find that traditional Greek village vibe on Rhodes, which is what I personally look for in a Greek holiday. And it has to be said that large chunks of the coast just aren’t very pretty. The landscape, on the east coast at least, is quite harsh and barren. The west coast is beautiful but lacking in settlements and transport.
If I had to choose somewhere to stay down the coast it would probably be Lindos (expensive) or nearby Lardos (cheap, has a small village just insland), or Kiotari-Gennadi (quiet, lots of resort hotels).
However, ff you’re looking for a beach holiday with AI/package options, good beaches, and less crowds I recommend Kos or Corfu instead.
For more info on the best places stay, check out my guide to all the Beach Resorts on Rhodes.
Read more: The Nicest Places in Greece with Direct Flights
Is Rhodes Right for You?
I would say Rhodes is suitable for you if:
- you enjoy an atmospheric city break in shoulder season or even in the winter, when it’s not too hot and crowded
- you like to explore a variety of historic sites, or if you’re particularly interested in medieval history
- you enjoy a fast-paced break with lots to do
- you’re looking for a family break with lots of entertainment and activities
- you’re looking for a cheap trip with a group of friends and lively nightlife
- you’re used to package holidays and that’s the vibe you’re after
- a fancy modern hotel at a good price is more important to you than being on the beach or in a village location
- you’re looking for an all-inclusive options
If you’ve found a cheap flight to Rhodes but prefer to stay small and authentic, I recommend instead taking the ferry to Symi or Chalki. Ferries are cheap and easy, and you can combine it with a relaxed night or two in Rhodes Town. I recently spent a few days on Symi and loved it – you can read my tips and itinerary at 3 Days on Symi.
Read more about Rhodes:
Rhodes Port Map + Ferry Locations
Rhodes: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide + Map
10 Most Beautiful Beaches on Rhodes
Image credits:
Ammoudes-Faliraki: © Philippos Philippou / Shutterstock
Tsambika: © Lubos K / Shutterstock
All other images © The Mediterranean Traveller