Ermoupoli (also spelt Ermoupolis or Hermoupolis) is the capital of Syros, a Greek island in the middle of the Cyclades group.
Unlike neighbouring Mykonos, Syros is not a major tourist destination but it’s actually the administrative capital of the Cyclades. And Ermoupoli – its main town and port – is a major ferry hubs so you may well end up here if island-hopping for any length of time.
It’s definitely worth spending at least a day here – it’s one of the most beautiful small cities in Greece and is quite unlike anywhere else in the Cyclades.
Here’s what to see and do whilst in Ermoupoli.
Ermoupoli – What’s It Like?
Ermoupoli is unique amongst Cycladic towns for its Venetian heart and neoclassical architecture painted in attractive pastel hues.
But Ermoupoli is not a tourist town. It’s a busy working town with a significant university population which lends it a buzz and a business all year round. As the administrative centre of the Cyclades there are many civic offices and also plenty of cheap ferry connections which bring locals to Syros for their bureaucratic needs.
Syros has a long history as one of the most prolific islands in the Aegean. It was under Venetian occupation for a long time – from 1204 until 1522. Even under subsequent Ottoman rule a significant part of the population retained their Catholic beliefs.
At this time, the main settlement was on Ano Syros – one of the two hills overlooking the harbour. These two hills are each topped by a church and give Ermoupoli a unique skyline. They were originally separate villages but have now been absorbed into Ermoupoli.
The population really exploded during the Greek War of Independence against the Ottomans in the 19th century when it welcomed Greek refugees from Asia Minor and the Dodecanese islands. Syros remained neutral during the war and was seen as a safe haven. These newcomers built down by the harbour in Ermoupoli and endowed it with their wealth, industry, and expertise.
This small island became known for its shipbuilding, banking (it even had its own currency), and textiles production. Its success can be seen in the many neoclassical villas and mansions surrounding the port.
What to See and Do in Ermoupoli?
Waterfront
Ermoupoli has a natural harbour with the Neorion docks on its west and a headland called Nisaki to its east. Larger ferries tend to dock on the western side. Immediately in front of the docks you’ll find travel agencies selling ferry tickets, cafes, and a few cheap guesthouses.
The old shipyard (Neorion) next to the ferry port has recently been revived and behind it is the Industrial Museum of Ermoupoli.
Walk around towards Nisaki and the waterfront becomes livelier, with long rows of cafes and restaurants that have generous outdoors seating. This part of the harbour is where the megayachts and tourist boats dock.
The National Resistance Monument (pictured above) takes pride of place in the harbour and the road behind it leads up to Miaouli Square and the Syros Town Hall.
The main road that runs alongside the harbour is very busy and in the hot summer this area can feel dusty and chaotic. Head back a street or two to find more relaxing places for a coffee.
Thankfully Ermoupoli’s backstreets are a joy – shady and cool, swathed in bougainvillaea and lined with cafes and tavernas. In the streets immediately behind the waterfront you’ll find local stores selling clothes and hardware as well as a small covered market.
Miaouli Square
Maiouli Square is the civic heart of Ermoupoli, it’s biggest plateia and a favourite hangout for local kids.
You will find several prominent buildings on or around the square:
- Ermoupolis City Hall (designed by Ernst Ziller)
- Archaeological Museum of Syros
- Historical Archive of the Cyclades
- Ermoupoli Municipal Cultural Centre
Like many Greek squares, it’s packed with fast food joints. If you’re after a gyros and fries you’ll find plenty here, as well as several sweet shops (Syros is known for its loukoumi, elsewhere known as Turkish Delight, and you’ll see hawkers selling boxes of it on the ferries).
The Ellinikon Bistro is a pleasant old-school cafe with a surprisingly modern menu.
Or head to the south east corner of Miaouli Square where you’ll find the densest tangle of alleyways which are home to some of Ermoupoli’s best cafes, bars, and restaurants. This area really comes alive at night.
You can have a coffee at The Corner Cafe, an ice-cream at Django Gelato, and cocktails at JAR.
The north east corner of Maiouli leads on to two icons of Syros – the Apollon Theatre (based on the design of Italian opera houses such as Milan’s La Scala) and the blue-domed Church of Agios Nikolaos which appears in many photos of Ermoupoli.
Vaporia and Asteria Beach
Beyond Agios Nikolaos you’ll find the much-photographed Vaporia district, where wealthy shipbuilders constructed their mansions (the name itself refers to a type of ship). You’ll see plenty of marble on show in these grand abodes. Some have been turned into high-end hotels and guesthouses.
It’s also home to Asteria Beach. It’s not so much a beach as a concrete swimming platform, but it’s the best option for a dip in town and is the place to be seen in the summer months.
Dili
Behind Vaporia is the western hill – Dili – which is home to the Orthodox Church of the Resurrection. There up plenty of steps which will take you up to the church through Vrontado, a very quiet residential neighbourhood with many abandoned houses that must have been glorious in their prime.
There’s a good view from the church but if you’re only going to choose one hill to climb then Ano Syros is the more interesting of the two.
From the Church of the Resurrection it might look simple to walk across to Ano Syros but the road is winding and there are too many fields with barbed wire fences to easily walk. I tried but got a few funny looks. Perhaps it’s more straightforward in the car.
Ano Syros
Ano Syros is a must-see whilst on Syros, especially if you can’t help but miss the vibe and aesthetics of the other Cycladic islands. This is the oldest part of town by far – dating back to the 1200s – and it has a serene feel.
The houses of the village form a natural fortification with the Catholic Church of Agios Georgios at its core. It has amazing views over Ermoupoli and a handful of fantastic cafes and bars to enjoy them from.
For more information read Ano Syros – A Beauty Hidden in Plain Sight.
How to Get to Ermoupoli
Syros has a domestic airport (JSY) with connections to Athens – see Skyscanner to compare fares.
But it’s also very well connected by ferry. Being an administrative hub there are frequent connections to Athens Piraeus as well as the other islands in the Cyclades and the Dodecanese – see Ferryhopper for routes and fares. Ermoupoli is the main ferry port on Syros and ferries dock a 5-minute walk from the main part of the waterfront.
Where to Stay in Ermoupoli
Ermoupoli has a great range of high-end and boutique accommodation options, many housed in its beautiful neoclassical buildings. True budget rooms and studios are surprisingly thin on the ground, rooms can sometimes be cheaper in the beach villages.
High-end:
Mid-range:
Budget:
If you want to help support the island’s many stray cats please donate to Help Syros Cats.
Read more:
Ano Syros – A Beautiful Hidden Gem in Greece
Ultimate Guide to Beach Destinations in the Cyclades
Greek Island-Hopping 101: Everything You Need to Know
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Image credits: All images © The Mediterranean Traveller