Syros - A Quick Island Guide | The Mediterranean Traveller

The Greek island of Syros has somehow remained off-the-beaten-track – despite being a short ferry ride from Mykonos and boasting an airport, sandy beaches, and a handsome neoclassical port town.

But this enigmatic island is actually the main hub of the Cyclades. It has a handsome capital adorned with neoclassical buildings and boasting a rich cultural heritage.

Here are the highlights.

What’s the vibe like?
Ermoupoli
Where to Stay on Syros
Food and Drink
Best Beaches on Syros
What to Do and See on Syros
Getting There and Around

Syros – what’s it like?

Syros is a small island with a favourable natural harbour and good strategic position at the crossroads of the Aegean. It was ruled by the Venetians for several centuries from 1204 and then the Ottomans from 1522.

During the Greek War of Independence its status as a neutral safe haven attracted Greek-speaking refugees from around the Aegean. Amongst these were people from Hydra, Chios and Psara – islands famous for shipping, shipbuilding, and trade. These new inhabitants settled down by the port in Ermoupoli and helped turn Syros into a prosperous and prolific island.

All sorts of industries flourished during this period – marine, banking, education, agriculture, and textiles production. Before Piraeaus was Greece’s major port, Ermoupoli held that title. Syros even had its own currency.

The successful ploughed their money back into Ermoupoli, building vast neoclassical mansions and cultural institutes. It still has a strong tradition of culture and the arts.

These days it hasa population of approximately 30,000. But unlike other islands in the Cyclades much of this population is year-round, not seasonal. There’s a significant student population which brings a youthful buzz to the town.

Syros is relatively undisturbed by the modern beach tourism phenomenon and so is a great place to go to experience day-to-day Greek life – or just for a change of pace. It’s an intriguing mix of cosmopolitan and traditional, relatively unchanged over the past few decades compared to, say, Mykonos.

It manages to excel in both high culture and and the simple things (quiet beaches, good food) – perfect if you can only sit on the beach for so long.

Beyond Ermoupoli the landscape is arid and it’s blessed with good beaches, most of which are sandy.

It’s not unvarnished though and the presence of heavy industry is more notable than on the other Cycladic islands.

Ermoupoli

Syros’ capital and main port Ermoupoli is quite different to other ports in the Cyclades. Dominated by neoclassical architecture, it has more in common with Nafplio or even Chania than Mykonos or Santorini.

But it also has a big working and student population. The first thing you notice as you approach on the ferry will be its skyline dominated by two church-topped hills, and second will be the looming dry docks of Neorion shipyard. The streets around the waterfront are chaotic and full of life. Duck into the cobbled backstreets to find a tangle of tavernas before emerging in squares surrounded by grand buildings and cultural riches.

For more information read: Ermoupoli – the Neoclassical Capital of Syros

Where to Stay in Ermoupoli

Most of the island’s accommodation is found in Ermoupoli. It is particularly blessed with some fantastic high-end and boutique hotels. But think grand-dame town glamour rather than the kind of pared-back chic beach hotels you find on other Cycladic islands. The balconies are ornate, the floors are are polished marble and the interiors are sumptuous.

Arguably, the quintessential Syros experience is to stay at at the water’s edge in Vaporia (pictured above), where swimming is possible when conditions are calm.

The best luxury hotels are:

Mid-range:

Budget:

Food and Drink

As Syros has a large year-round population and attracts many visiting Greeks, you can expect a high standard of food in general. Most of the produce is local.

Stop for a coffee at:

Some well-regarded restaurants to put on your list are:

Amvix, Italian by the waterfront
Ousyra, modern Italian in the backstreets
Peri Tinos, modern Greek/seafood by the waterfront
Avant Garden, modern Mediterranean near the theatre
Mazi, modern Mediterranean near the square

Other highlights are Django for gelato, Laoutari for traditional kafeneion vibes, and Porte Galleria for evening drinks.

You’ll find excellent seafood restaurants in all the coastal villages such as Allou Yialou in Kini.

Don’t forget to pick up a box (or three) of loukoumi, one of Syros’ most famous products. This jelly-like sweet is the Greek version of Turkish Delight and is usually flavoured by rose or mastic.

Another local sweet is halvadopita, a sesame paste sandwiched between two waters. There are plenty of sweet shops in town especially around Maiouli Square.

To stock up on a variety of local produce head to Prekas Delicatessen near the port or Maison du Meze up in Ano Syros.

Best Beaches on Syros

Syros’ coastal resorts are small and highly seasonal. The beaches can feel pretty packed in late July and August when Greeks are on their summer vacation.

The villages are all fairly traditional family-friendly beach resorts, each with a beach bar or two aimed at the local student population. But the beach bars are outnumbered by simple tavernas and seafood restaurants.

As most visitors stay in Ermoupoli and the distances are short, the coastal villages can feel a bit dead at night – which is either a plus or a minus depending on what you’re looking for. And outside high season they are fairly quiet in the daytime too.

It’s possible to reach most of the beach villages by regular bus from Ermoupoli.

Azolimnos
Kini
Galissas
Finikas
Poseidonia
Megas Gialos
Varis

If you’re looking to stay by the coast, Kini and Galissas are the main resorts and have the best amenities.

The south coast is more developed. North of Kini the island is wild and undeveloped – take a boat trip to some of the area’s hidden coves which are otherwise inaccessible. You can find boat trips from Kini or Ermoupoli.

Where to stay by the beach

This is not the kind of island you come to for a luxury beach resort, but to savour the simple charms.

Syros’ beach resorts have a traditional appeal and an abundance of good-value traditional guesthouses and rooms (known as domatia) – search Booking.com for accommodation.

However, if you’re after something at the comfortable end then try:

Best Things to Do on Syros

Although an uphill walk is unappealing in summer, don’t skip a visit to Ano Syros. This beautiful hilltop village is the original part of Ermoupoli and has a distinctly different feel to the rest of the town, with its whitewashed alleyways and Catholic church.

If you don’t fancy the walk (or only fancy the downhill) then a taxi isn’t far. Ask for Agios Georgios church. The panoramic views are wonderful in the evening and there are some excellent cafes and restaurants.

Back down in Ermoupoli, make the most of the town’s cultural calendar – catch an opera at Apollon Theatre or watch a film at Pallas Cinema. There’s also the Gallery of the Cyclades, the Industrial Museum, and the Archaeological Museum.

Keep an eye out for posters around town – there’s always something new going on.

As well as religious celebrations, Syros also hosts an increasing number of festivals – rebetiko (August), guitar (July), film (July), and a the Ermoupoleia Cultural Festival (September).

Getting There and Around

How do you get to Syros?

Syros has a domestic airport (JSY) with regular connections to Athens – see Skyscanner to compare fares.

Ermoupoli is a major ferry hub with frequent connections to Athens Piraeus as well as the other islands in the Cyclades and the Dodecanese – see Ferryhopper for routes and fares.

The airport is just to the south of Ermoupoli.

Alternatively, you can fly to Mykonos International Airport (JMK) and then ferry to Syros (25-45 minutes) – see Ferryhopper for times and fares.

What’s the best way to get around Syros?

Syros is surprisingly small but this means it’s blissfully easy to get around. The island has a circular bus route with regular buses running in both directions and calling at most of the island’s coastal villages along the way. In the summer there are buses into the evening making it possible to spend a long day at the beach without planning, or to stay by the coast and head into Ermoupoli for a bite to eat. Most of the villages are around 20 minutes from Ermoupoli. It’s also easy to traverse by car or scooter.

The main KTEL bus terminal is on the waterfront, just before the Neorion shipyard.

See KTEL Syros for routes and timetables.

Car rental agencies are based at the airport or near to the KTEL bus terminal.

Ermoupoli – The Neoclassical Capital of Syros

Syros – 10 Insider Tips for Your Trip

A-Z List of Greek Islands

Greek Island-Hopping 101: Everything You Need to Know

Enjoyed this post? Click to save to Pinterest: