A Quick Guide to Molyvos, Lesvos' Beautiful Harbour Town

Are you thinking of booking a trip to Molyvos on Lesvos? Here’s what to expect from this charming harbour town.

Where is it?

Molyvos (also known as Mithimna, the town’s name in ancient times) is located on the north coast of Lesvos, east of Petra and Anaxos.

What’s the vibe like?

It’s a hilltop town with traditional stone houses scattered across the slope, between a castle and the sea. You’ll spot some distinctive touches including red and maroon paintwork and wooden window platforms called sachnisi (that you’ll also come across in other parts of the old Ottoman Empire).

At one end of Molyvos is a small and very picturesque harbour, where you can dine on a seafood dinner directly opposite the boats that bring in the catch. It’s one of the nicest harbours I’ve been to in Greece (and I’ve seen a fair few) and the standard of food here is high. If you want to carry on afterwards you’ll find the convivial Molly’s Bar within easy reach.

There’s a path running along the bottom of the town (although not quite at sea level). In the middle, you’ll find another cluster of cafes, bars, and shops.

From here you can walk up the hilly streets, some of which are covered in wisteria for shade. You’ll see photos of Molyvos with its wisteria in bloom on postcards and around the internet. It’s enchanting, and you’ll find it in other towns around Lesvos too. If you want to see it in bloom you’ll have to come in April though, which is usually a bit early for beach weather.

There are a few tavernas and shops up the hill, but most are along the main road below. Similarly, most of the old houses on the hill are still residential. Despite being the most popular tourist destination on the island it has managed not to sell its soul to tourism, which unfortunately is a bit of a rareity these days.

The main tourist area in the town is near the beach, which is a little further down the main road. Here you’ll find more amenities such as mini-markets, a few bars, ATMs, taxis, post boxes, parking, and most of the hotels.

Molyvos attracts mid-market Brits and other northern Europeans who appreciate its authenticity and relaxed pace, with the Dutch also particularly fond of the area. Visitors are mostly older couples and older families, and there are lots of returners.

It’s also popular with domestic tourism, with most of its flights coming from Athens. Neighbouring resorts Petra and Anaxos are close enough to pop in to Molyvos for evening dinner.

You’ll like it if you like: Parga and Nafplio (although it’s much much smaller).

What’s the beach like?

The beach in Molvyos is small and pebbly. If you’re a real beach bum you might want to consider staying in Petra or Anaxos instead – the beaches are bigger with more amenities, in Anaxos’ case much more sand.

But Molyvos Beach is perfect for a quick dip or swim. The beach itself consists of pebbles and has a dark grey tone, but once you’re in the water about thigh-height the seabed becomes sandy. You can wade out for a long time before it gets really deep.

Don’t forget your snorkel mask – there are plenty of fish in the pebbly area, especially to the sides of the beach which are rockier. I managed without sea shoes although I did see some sea urchins in the rocky bits.

There’s a small organised area in front of Hotel Molyvos I with sun loungers underneath tamarisk trees (mostly on a platform with a small man-made beach), a shower, and a changing hut.

I found the bit of beach in front of the tavernas (Triena and Ageri) to be the sandiest entrance to the water.

At the northern end of the beach is Congas Beach Bar, one of the best beach bars I visited on the island. It doesn’t have much in the way of actual beach, but has a cool tiki vibe and good music.

As the beach is so narrow it does fill up quickly at busy times. But if you head south past the Olive Press Hotel it quietens down considerably.

The rest of the beach is long, scrappy (sometimes with some litter), and very quiet – except for the bit around the Delfinia Hotel. Beyond the Delfinia is the unofficial clothing-optional zone.

Activities and amenities

Molyvos Castle is definitely worth the short uphill walk. It’s not as bad as it looks from the bottom – it only takes about 7 minutes and the way is signposted, but double-check the opening times before you go. At the time of writing it closes on Tuesdays and from 3:30pm onwards so you no sunset visits, although you can still get a good view from outside the walls and from the Byzantino cafe at the top.

Entrance is €3 and you can pay by cash or card. It’s small but well-preserved. Built in the mid-13th century, it has passed through the hands of the Byzantines, Turks, Franks, Catalans, and Ottomans. There are a few information boards with interesting information about the history of the town and the castle.

There are several travel agencies in Molyvos which can help you out with activities and excursions.

The most popular are the Mercury Express boat trips which are run by the same people as the Seahorse Hotel. The schedule changes weekly but usually it will be some combination of:

It’s a small boat with 2 decks (the upper deck has sun loungers), if you’re on a tight schedule at a busy time of year you’ll want to book a few days in advance. There are a few trips you can book online through Musement (linked above), the Jet2 experience marketplace. It has pickup options for Molyvos and Petra.

There are also numerous boats offering private boats and fishing trips, just ask around the harbour or at the agencies.

I booked all my excursions through the agency Lesvorama when I first arrived, the BBQ boat trip seemed to be the most popular and the day I wanted was booked up so I had to shuffle things around. I wasn’t sure if the trip to Skala Sikamineas would be worth it but this ended up being one of my favourite days on Lesvos (I did the starlight one). For more details you can read my Review of Molyvos Boat Trips.

If you’re worried about getting seasick I’d wait until you’re in Molyvos and chat to the staff about which days have the calmest forecast, although I found that once the boat was past Molyvos it was fine.

There are also a few bus excursions (one day per week) which pick up from Molyvos, Petra, and Anaxos, though the tours might be in Dutch:

There are hot springs nearby at Eftalou. It has a small bathhouse which is no longer run as a business but staffed by volunteers. You can help to keep it tidy by taking a plastic bag to pick up some trash. You can take a dip whilst looking out to sea. There are a couple of tavernas around plus its the best area for quiet beaches.

Sometimes the local bus route extends to Eftalou but when I visited it wasn’t running in that direction, so you’ll need a car, bike, or sturdy shoes (it takes around 1 hour to walk).

You can rent cars, e-bikes, bicycles, or scooters from Kosmos. There’s an information board with a map of bike trails in the area in the bus station nearby.

There’s also a tourist train that trundles between Molyvos, Petra and Anaxos several times a day (and there’s a KTEL public bus too). If Molyvos Beach feels a bit small then these are your easiest alternatives.

Both are resorts with wide beaches and plenty of facilities (beach clubs, tavernas, sun loungers, watersports). You can buy tickets from their shop near the harbour or on the train by card or cash but check the website or the information boards as some stops are disembarkation only (unless you have limited mobility, in which case just let them know).

Transport and accessibility

From the airport:

It takes around 1 hour and 15 minutes to drive to Molyvos from Mytilini International Airport or Mytilini port.

It’s worth noting that if you’re taking an included bus transfer (for example with Jet2) then expect it to take longer, as much as 2.5 hours, as Molyvos is the last stop after Kalloni, Anaxos and Petra.

Public transport:

There is a bus from the KTEL bus station in Mytilini, it takes 1.5 hours. You can find bus times on the KTEL Lesvos website.

For more information see Getting Around Lesvos By Bus.

Accessibility:

Molyvos is hilly (although not too steep) and all the streets are cobbled. It takes around 10 minutes to walk from the beach at one end to the harbour at the other end along the main road, this does involve a gentle (ish) up and downhill. And there’s a further small downhill and some steps to reach the beach.

Parking:

There’s a large car park at the entrance to the town – it’s on the pricey side (€4 for 1 hour, €7 for 2 hours, €10 for 3 hours) which is probably why it was nearly empty when I was there, locals preferring to find a free spot around the school opposite.

There’s also a car park up at the castle.

The main streets are closed to vehicles during certain hours. If you’re bringing a rental car with you I would check with your accommodation for the best place to park.

There’s a taxi rank next to the big car park – the number to call is +30 22530 71480.

Prices

Molyvos is good value for accommodation and food/drink prices. It’s a little bit more expensive than Petra or Anaxos but not by much.

There’s a limited number of sun loungers and there is a small charge for these (sun loungers at most other beaches on Lesvos are free for cafe/taverna customers).

Gift shops run the full gamut from tat to eye-poppingly expensive boutiques, with lots of interesting Greek bits and bobs in between. The women’s co-op on the main road is a good place to stock up on local produce to take back home.

Where to stay

The accommodation options in Molyvos are mostly traditional Greek rooms, small hotels, and holiday rentals. These can seem basic and dated if you’re used to more bougie accommodation. Read the listings and reviews carefully rather than going by star ratings. There are plenty of budget options. Everything books up quickly, don’t expect much choice last-minute – if you’ve left it too late look in Petra and Anaxos.

The Sea Horse Hotel in the harbour is popular and friendly. If you want to be up within the labyrinthine old streets then look at The Schoolmistress With The Golden Eyes.

For the best beachside location look at Hotel Molyvos I, Hermes, and the distinctive Olive Press Hotel (which is also available through Jet2).

If you need a pool then the Olive Press Hotel and Amfitriti (Jet2) are your best bets unless you’re prepared to stay further out of town in which case have a look at:

Bringing the family? Traditional 3-bed Villa Molova has a pool and is located near the harbour.