North-east Corfu – sometimes known as ‘Kensington-on-Sea‘ – is home to some of the most beautiful landscapes on the island (as well as some of its most expensive villas).
The scenery here is delightful, with the tall peak of Mount Pantokrator inland and a long series of small scalloped bays with pebble beaches by the water. It’s green and tranquil with plenty of pines, eucalyptus, tamarisk and olive trees.
The views across the water to Albania glow an enchanting pink at sunset.
The coastline between Barbati and Kassiopi is arguably the nicest bit of Corfu. It has long been a hit with upmarket holidaymakers but the rugged scenery has kept development to a minimum.
You’re more likely to find villas than big hotels in this area, although there are few, plus plenty of traditional studios up along the main road and a wider selection of accommodation at Kassiopi.
Here’s a rundown of the beaches and villages along the NE coast:
Barbati
Barbati is the first proper beach you come to as the main road heading north from Corfu Town heads into the foothills of Mount Pantokrator. It was my surprise favourite beach in Corfu!
It’s a small resort split over two levels. Down by the beach are a handful of beach bars tucked underneath shady tamarisk trees.
You’ll find the tavernas and shops up along the main road which is a short but steep walk uphill. Accommodation is spread out across the slope.
The sea here is a vibrant green and delicious for swimming. The beach consists of flat white pebbles but once you wade into the water the bottom is sandy in parts. There are several boat hire outfits stationed along the beach and the beach bars have sections with sunloungers.
For more information read: A Quick Guide to Barbati
Nissaki
Nissaki is the next area you come to as you head north along the main road and it’s a spread out along several bays. Again, the amenities are up on the main road which is high up and snakes around several hills. There are many villas up behind the main road.
The first beach that you come to is at Nissaki Harbour (pictured above). It’s a small scenic beach with boat rental, a couple of cafes/tavernas – Oliva, Almyra and Igera – and the Apollo dive shop.
Next is Kaminaki, a picturesque beach at the end of a steep gravel track which has the feel of a fishing village. There are two tavernas – Blue Wave and Thalasa plus boat rental and watersports.
It’s not possible to walk along the coast between Nissaki Beach and Kaminaki, but there is an easy coastal path north from Kaminaki to Nissaki Beach – the largest of the beaches here.
Nissaki Beach is a medium-sized pebble beach and is home to the 4-star TUI Atlantica Nissaki Beach hotel which is right by the water. It’s the largest hotel in the area.
Yiannis Taverna Krouzeri at the south end of the beach has sun-loungers for customers and there are a few apartments and villas to rent here too. There’s a small jetty for tour boats.
The beach is sheltered but the sea gets deep quickly. The water around here is particularly clear, and you’ll see many snorkellers exploring the rocky areas to each side of the beach.
The road down to Nissaki is steep and narrow, something to bear in mind when choosing a rental car.
For more information read: A Quick Guide to Nissaki
Agni
Little Agni is one of the most famous spots on the NE coast thanks to its seafood tavernas:
There’s not much else here apart from a small pebble beach. Most visitors come and go on motorboats – you can rent them from many points along the coast or you can also look out for the speed boat taxi service.
You can walk between Nisaki and Agni (it’s part of the Corfu Trail) but it gets harder every year as new villas are built. To find the start of the trail you must walk through the Atlantica hotel on Nisaki (walk up to the largest building, turn right and walk towards the trees and there should be a sign – pictured below).
For more information read: A Quick Guide to Agni
Gialiskari
Gialiskari is a small unorganised beach just north of Agni. Follow the signs and the coastal footpath will take you right there.
It’s backed by a large field of prickly pear and has a hint of wilderness about it. There are a few villas which overlook the beach.
The beach is a mix of sand and shingle and there are some large rocks and great snorkelling.
Kalami
Kalami is one of the larger villages – and when I say ‘larger’ it’s still pretty small. But the amenities here are down by the beach rather than up on the main road.
There are several beachfront tavernas, restaurants, and beach bars and it has a quietly buzzy vibe. The adults-only San Antonio Corfu Resort has a small pool with a cracking view overlooking the beach.
The most well-known place to eat here is the restaurant at The White House – the refurbished former home of Lawrence and Nancy Durrell. There are rooms to rent during the summer but most just pop in for a scenic lunch.
For more information read: A Quick Guide to Kalami
Kouloura and Houhulio Beach
Houhulio Beach is a 20-minute walk north of Kalami around a headland. It’s ideal if you’re looking for a quieter beach (as Kalami can sometimes feel a bit crowded). The headland is home to lots of villas but there’s also some parking.
The beach is shingle, unorganised and shaded by large trees.
A short walk away is the pretty Taverna Kouloura which has ample mooring for boats in its photogenic harbour (pictured below), which dates back to Byzantine times.
There’s a footpath which leads north to Kerasia Beach.
Kerasia
There’s a footpath which leads along the coast from Houhulio to Kerasia, a peaceful beach home to the Kerasia Tavern.
It has a secluded feel – only a handful of villas are found in these parts, although there is parking available at the taverna.
The beach is a mix of shingle and large pebbles.
Agios Stefanos NE and the Erimitis Peninsula
Agios Stefanos is a small harbour village and the gateway to the unspoilt Erimitis Peninsula.
Don’t confuse with the other Agios Stefanos on the north-west coast (which tends to be known as San Stefanos). They have a very different vibe.
There are a handful of taveras and a cafe/bar or two close to the water. There are many villas in the surrounding area – upmarket villa rental agency CV Villas originated here and still has a good selection, as does Villa Collective (a venture from the same family). Agios Stefanos is home to the de Rothschild Estate, to give you an idea of the company you might keep.
From the harbour at Agios Stefanos, you can explore the unspoilt beaches of the Erimitis Peninsula:
- Avlaki
- Vrachli
- Moschofili
- Akoli
- Kaminakia
- Vromolimni
Erimitis is one of the last remaining undeveloped corners of the island. Unfortunately, it has recently become the subject of tug-of-war between developers, who want to build a large luxury resort here, and enviromentalists who want to preserve its biodiversity. You can read more at Save Erimitis.
There is a small hotel right on Avlaki called Bella Mare., and a beachfront restaurant called Cavo Barbaro. A small road runs alongside the beach – despite the lack of cars, it somewhat ruins the vibe. You can (just about) walk into Kassiopi from here, but some sort of wheels will make it much quicker.
Kassiopi
Bookending this northern part of the coastline is popular resort town Kassiopi.
Kassiopi is built around a picturesque harbour and overlooked by the ruins of a Byzantine castle. It’s cosmopolitan but not pretentious and has accommodation to suit all budgets.
It also has a good variety of tavernas, shops, and amenities, making it popular with returners, second-homers and expats.
As it’s a harbour town, you can expect good seafood restaurants and plenty of organised boat trips.
For more information read: A Quick Guide to Kassiopi
Need to Know
A main road runs alongside the north-east coast connecting Corfu Town with Kassiopi. Buses are frequent in high season but it’s a popular route so there might not always be a seat. The main road does not run at sea level and many stops require a fairly steep walk down to the sea.
Read more: How to Get Around Corfu By Bus
Most visitors to the area rent a car and/or take a small motorboat out. There is some parking at most villages/beach areas. Smaller roads can be steep and narrow.
There are some lovely walks in the area (although they’re not always as easy to access as one might hope). A good starting point is the Ciccerone book Walking & Trekking Corfu.
Read more:
Where to Stay on Corfu: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
North-West Corfu – An Overview
Image credits:
Erimitis Peninsula aerial: © ernestos / Adobe Stock
Kerasia beach: © Nikolais / Adobe Stock
Agios Nikolaos: © ernestos / Adobe Stock
All other images © The Mediterranean Traveller