Thinking of booking a trip to Paleochora in Crete? Here’s what to expect from this laid-back beach resort on the southwest coast.
Where is it?
Paleochora (also spelt Palaiochóra) is in the far southwest corner of Crete in the province of Chania.
What’s the vibe like?
Paleochora is a large beach village which has been popular with windsurfers for decades, bringing a a bit of a hippie vibe with them (a bit like Mastichari on Kos).
It’s perfect for nature lovers. The town is a gateway to some of the wildest and most beautiful parts of Crete including the White Mountains (Lefka Ori), the harbour villages of Sfakia which you can reach by ferry, and remote Gavdos, the most southerly island in all of Europe. It’s a great base for hiking and exploring the region by boat or car.
These days the streets are colourful and photogenic with brightly-painted taverna chairs and tables underneath mulberry trees. The main pedestrian streets burst into life in the evenings.
The vibe (and food) is traditional Greek with an alternative leaning. It has a wine bar, organic food shops, and a long-established vegetarian restaurant called The Third Eye.
Paleochora has a large crowd of returnees who visit year after year. The average age trends older plus it attracts plenty of Greek visitors as well as daytrippers from Chania.
What’s the beach like?
Paleochora has two main beaches with different orientations.
On the western side is Pachia Ammos, a wide beach of coarse golden sand. There is flat rock under some parts of the beach and in the sea.
There are several beach cafes right by the sands with sun loungers you can rent by the day, and watersports are available too. The road runs alongside the beach with plenty of parking spots.
This west-facing beach gets great sunsets. There are a few big trees for shade and plenty of free space for those who prefer towels on the sand.
On the eastern side of Paleochora is Chalikia Beach, a much smaller strip of pebble beach. This beach has the most amazing crystal clear water and gets deep quickly so is perfect for swimming. The sun loungers here are also much cheaper and it’s close to several tavernas and cafes.
If you’re in Paleochora for a while you can also explore the beaches west of the village – Grammeno is a highlight, and there are boat trips to Kedrodasos and Elafonisi.
There are strong winds sometimes but the good thing about Paleochora is that you can always just nip over to the other beach for shelter.
Activities and amenities
There’s no shortage of things to do in and around Paleochora. There are a couple of tour agencies by the harbour and on the main streets – they’ll give you a rundown of the available excursions as well as ferry timetables.
From Paleochora you can take a ferry to Sougia, Agia Roumeli and Gavdos. At Agia Roumeli you can change for another ferry to Loutro and Sfakia. These ferries aren’t particularly cheap (around €20 for one leg) but it’s a wonderful way to explore. I highly recommend seeing Loutro, it’s one of the most beautiful villages in Greece.
Boat trips are available along the coast in either direction to neighbouring beaches including the famous Elafonisi beach.
Excursions to the popular Samaria Gorge also run from Paleochora (although not every day) and in high season you’ll sometimes find trips to the other gorges.
You can rent your own boat (with or without a skipper), go snorkelling, or join a fishing trip.
There are a few options in the area for hiking although many will require a taxi at least one way.
- Paleochora-Anidri is the closest circular walk
- The E4 long-distance path runs through Paleochora, it can be challenging in parts but you can walk to Sougia via the archaeological site at Lissos and then take your weary legs back on the ferry
- If you’re planning extensive walking in Crete you might want to check out Ciccerone: The High Mountains of Crete
Cooking lessons, wine-tasting, and olive oil-tasting can be organised through the Pirate’s Tavern.
Despite the alternative crowd, it can be surprisingly hard to find yoga classes on the fly. Look around for flyers, or check with your hotel.
Transport and Accessibility
From the airport:
Paleochora is a 90-minute drive from Chania International Airport.
It’s best to arrange a transfer in advance as drivers at the airport won’t always be willing to drive so far south. Prices are around €100 and the local taxi company is Paleochora Taxi.
Public transport:
Paleochora is served by the regional KTEL Chania coaches – see the KTEL website for timetables.
The bus route connects Chania and Paleochora, but this is pretty much the only regular route (though in the high season there are sometimes early morning buses for the gorge hikes).
Anendyk Ferries sail from Paleochora to Sougia, Agia Roumeli and Gavdos. Change at Agia Roumeli for connections for Hora Sfakion and Loutro – see Anendyk website for timetables.
Accessibility:
Paleochora is almost entirely flat and easily walkable. There’s plenty of space for parking including by the beach, although like anywhere in Greece it will fill up quickly in July and August.
No steps are required to reach Pachia Ammos beach beyond the kerb but it is a bit of a walk to get into the sea. There are wooden boardwalks on the beach but not the sturdy kind.
Prices
Paleochora is a solid mid-range resort these days although the south coast is a bit cheaper than the north. There’s something for all price points. For a pair of sun loungers on the main beach in high season you might pay €30, whilst over on Chalikida it’s nearer €5. There are some lovely boutique hotels but also plenty of basic rooms and camping for the budget traveller.
The cost of excursions and ferry tickets can add up though.
Where to stay
4-star Libyan Princess is the most comfortable hotel in town. Located on the main road up near Halikia Beach, it has a pool and a small wellness centre.
3-star Aris Hotel is the place for yogis – it has a rooftop yoga terrace to complement its recent revamp, eco-friendly features and local breakfast.
Up in the northern end of the village, Libyan Mare has comfortable apartments and a pool set in olive groves.
Want to be right by the beach? Hotel Pal Beach is basic but popular.
Read more about Crete:
Where to Stay in Chania Near the Beach
How to Get Around Chania By Bus
10 Most Beautiful Beaches Near Chania
Where to Stay on Crete: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
10 Most Beautiful Beaches on Crete
Image credits: All images © The Mediterranean Traveller
