A Quick Guide to Skala Eressos, the Northern Aegean's Hippie Hangout

Thinking of booking a trip to Skala Eressos on Lesvos? Here’s what to expect from this unique seaside village.

Where is it?

Skala Eressos (you’ll sometimes see it written Skala Eresou) is on the west coast of Lesvos, one of the biggest islands in Greece.

What’s the vibe like?

Colourful and carefree, Skala Eressos is known for its beachfront tavernas on painted wooden platforms, and its LGBT+ (but particularly L) scene and arty hippie vibe. The village is famously the birthplace of Ancient Greek poet Sappho.

But it’s also popular with local families and alternative youth from Mytilini and other Greek cities. It’s as if an old-school 70s hippie village grew up, earned some money, and had a love child with a traditional Greek seaside village.

There are lots of international regulars including northern Europeans (mainly Brits, Dutch, German), a Greek-American/Australian Diaspora contingent, and an increasing number of visitors from neighbouring Türkiye.

Skala Eressos has a unique vibe and I hope it manages to stay this way.

Red stools of Parasol Beach Bar. — Parasol Beach Bar.

It’s a small place – just two roads really, and is very chilled, but moderately lively in the evenings (in a laid-back Greek kind of way, with live music and late bars rather than thumping music). Visitors are a mix of groups of friends, couples, solos, and families. Older solo female travellers will feel at home here, regardless of orientation.

Businesses are a mix of traditional Greek tavernas and cafes/bars with a more international vibe. Think falafel or vegetable curry to a reggae soundtrack, and lots of juice places. It’s great for healthy eating. There are some treatments around – I spotted reflexology – but don’t expect Ubud.

At the eastern end of the beach, you’ll find a small harbour, some modern sculptures, and a mobile bar popular with locals.

4km inland is the Eressos, the main village which is occupied year-round and home to an increasing number of expats.

You’ll like Skala Eressos if you enjoy: Çıralı, Olympos, Mastichari, Paleochora, Vassiliki.

What’s the beach like?

Skala Eressos is built along a 3km sand and shingle beach. It faces SW and the sun goes down over a rocky outcrop to the west of the village. There’s a small rocky islet offshore called Badger Island.

The beach at Skala Eressos is a mix of dark volcanic sand, shingle, and pebble. As with many beaches on Lesvos, there are stones where the sea meets the beach and the gradient is also quite steep which makes getting in elegantly a challenge.

But once you’re in and waist-deep the seabed is sandy. There’s a long stretch which is waist-to-shoulder height but it does eventually get deeper. The sand is soft, sparkling, and a bit crunchy. I didn’t feel the need for sea shoes but you can find them in all the mini-markets.

Skala Eressos has a fairly consistent breeze which makes it a delight in summer heatwaves, especially with so many enticing places to sit and drink an iced coffee or a cold beer. It’s also a good spot for wind-powered watersports which you’ll find down the western end of the beach at Aeolian Village, the only hotel of any size on the island. It’s currently part of the Mark Warner family for activity holidays.

The seabed around Lesvos as a whole is very healthy and Skala Eressos is no exception. If you pop on a snorkel mask you’ll be amazed how many fish there are around you. The area around Avatara Bar to the harbour is particularly good.

Schedule your snorkelling for the morning when the wind is calmest, and your windsurfing for the late afternoon when it picks up.

Geology nerds will also love the beach – lots of different types of rock here.

Most of the beach is unorganised although there are shower hoses at regular points, mainly near the stairs/entry points. The beach right by the tavernas gets narrow at points, but the space underneath the platforms is often used for shade.

There’s a small organised section with sun loungers for hire and some watersports (inflatables and kayaks) at the western end of the village.

Beyond this is the widest, wildest and sandiest part of the beach. It’s backed by dunes and trees (and a car park), and in this direction find a small river mouth home to small river turtles – best viewed from Turtle Bridge. Unfortunately I spotted a few dead ones floating on their backs (something to bear in mind if you’re bringing kids).

The clothing-optional crowd should head for the far west end of the beach.

Activities and amenities

Skala Eressos may be small but it has plenty to do, although the main activities here are definitely swimming, lounging, and eating. Shout-out to my personal favourite spot, Orhana Saloon, for epic pancakes.

There’s a small open-air cinema during the summer that shows films for both kids and grown-ups. Keep an eye out for the posters opposite Sappho Travel.

Black Rock Dive Centre has a base in Lesvos and can arrange diving, snorkelling, freediving, and kayak trips. I was keen to get out on a snorkel trip but I was a bit lazy about arranging it and by the time I enquired the wind had scuppered my plans (rookie error), so my advice is to sort this out at the start of your trip. Open hours are listed outside the shop which is centrally located.

There are several local Facebook groups which will have details of concerts, events, and pop-up yoga classes.

Skala Eressos has a hilltop castle although there’s not much left of it. But it’s worth the hike up for the view, as long as it’s not too hot.

And on weekdays there’s a supported morning swim for women (supported by kayaks, noodles, people who know what they’re doing) out to Badger Rock which is a great way to get to know people if you’ve just arrived – check out the Facebook group Skala Women’s Rock Group for details or ask at gay-friendly Flamingos Bar for details.

The fortnight-long Eressos International Festival for Women is held every year in September. Check out the film Lesvia if you’re interested in learning more about the history of the lesbian community in the village.

At the centre of the village, you’ll find a handful of mini-supermarkets selling food supplies and beach essentials (inflatables, snorkel masks, toys for the kids), a pharmacy, taxis, and an ATM. Kalloni is the nearest big town. The road running parallel to the beach is lined with boutiques.

Skala Eressos has a small Archaeological Museum though I must confess I never made it there.

Sappho Travel can organise bicycle and scooter rentals and provide information on anything you need including buses, ferries, taxis, and accommodation.

The western end of Lesvos is arid and sparsely populated. There are few places to visit and you’ll need your own wheels.

But if you have them it’s definitely worth visiting the Petrified Forest – which is very Harry Potter-sounding but in fact refers to a protected area which is home to mind-bogglingly ancient fossilised trees which is on the UNESCO Tentative List and is part of the European Natura 2000 network.

There’s an information board in the main car park with details of walking trails in the area and of the Petrified Forest.

The renowned OSHO Afroz Meditation Centre and Commune is a short drive inland, as is the upmarket and restored Eressian Hotel & Spa which has a hammam and massage treatments.

A few more ideas if you have a car:

Moni Pithariou
Donkey Centre
Eressos Reservoir
Tsobani Waterfall

Transport and accessibility

Public transport:

There’s a large free car park on the main road into Skala Eressos and this is where you’ll find the bus stop – see Google Maps location. There’s another car park on the road running west out of town. This is nearer the beach.

Buses link Skala Eressos with the main KTEL bus station in Mytilini. The bus costs €11.70 one way, takes 2.5 hours and involves a quick change of bus at Kalloni. Timings aren’t always tourist-friendly.

You can find bus times on the KTEL Lesvos website and more information here: How to Get Around Lesvos By Bus.

I’ve heard it mooted that for July/August 2024 there will be an extra bus from Sigri to coincide with the arrival of the Blue Star from Pireaus.

From the airport:

There are no direct buses from the airport but you can take the airport bus into Mytilini for €1.60 to reach the the KTEL bus station, or it’s a €15 taxi ride.

Taxis:

Skala Eressos is on the other side of the island to Mytilini airport so taxis are expensive, around €120-140. Rideshares to/from the airport are common, ask around in Facebook groups such as or try Sappho Travel who are based in Skala Eressos.

The taxi rank is just opposite Sappho Travel and there are usually a few around but it’s best to arrange journeys in advance just in case.

Accessibility:

Skala Eressos is flat, with just one small hilly area near the castle. However, the parts of the beach behind the tavernas require steps to get down to the sea.

The area with watersports and sunbeds doesn’t require steps, is alongside the road, and has a boardwalk or two. It also has a wheelchair-accessible changing room and a Sea Access accessibility device.

The streets in Skala Eressos are lined with crazy paving (see picture above), including the shady pedestrian path that runs alongside the beach and through the tavernas.

Prices

Rooms and food in Skala Eressos are generally great value, but some of the prices in the boutiques are eye-popping and you can easily spend a lot on smoothies and brunch in this place (ask me how I know).

Where to stay

Accommodation in Skala Eressos is mostly traditional family-run hotels and studios such as the popular 2-star Sappho Hotel which is right in the thick of it on the seafront..

The nearest upmarket hotel is the Eressian Hotel & Spa, which is located in the inland village of Eressos. It’s around an hour by foot so too far to comfortably walk in the heat but if you’ve got a car it’s no problem.

I stayed at Hotel Kyma (pictured above) which is at the eastern end of the village and must have the best seafront views in town. It’s run by a lovely family and is great value.

However, if you’re a light sleeper I would recommend staying at the back of the village and away from the tavernas. The other noise consideration is motorbikes in the small hours when locals are going home at the end of the evening.

On the outskirts of the village, Heliotopos has comfortable rooms with modern decor in a lush landscape. It’s a bit further out than most so you’ll probably want to hire a bicycle.

And of course, there’s Aeolian Village if you prefer resort amenities and a quiet beachfront location. It’s a 15-minute walk to the main part of Skala Eressos.

Here are some more photos from Skala Eressos – because it’s a beaut: