Thinking of booking a trip to Agia Efimia on Kefalonia? Here’s what to expect from this scenic harbour village on the north coast of Kefalonia, between Sami and Fiskardo.
What’s the vibe like?
I stayed in Agia Efimia for a while as part of a longer trip exploring Kefalonia. I do love a small and charming harbour village, and it seemed well-placed for exploring some of main sites in the area. It’s a short distance from Fiskardo, Assos, Myrtos, and Melissani Lakes.
I should note that I was visiting without a car, which definitely makes it harder to see everything in Kefalonia. I’ll detail the various transport and trip options below, but you can read more detail in my post How to See Kefalonia in 1 Week. Some of the sights I found easier to visit from bigger places like Argostoli.
Agia Efimia is a village of two halves. There’s a small but busy marina which has had quite a lot of recent investment and is home to a couple of flotilla companies. Running alongside the marina is a line of tavernas, cafe-bars, and souvenir shops. The number of yachts means it feels very buzzy and vibrant for such a small place, particularly in the evening when everyone is out and about for a stroll and a gelato.
The rest of the village has a sleepy local feel. In the blocks behind the main road and beach, you’ll find bakeries and banks, traditional domatia accommodation, and a place that’s more in touch with its fishing village roots. It has the feel of somewhere that hasn’t changed much over the years.
I couldn’t really figure out if I felt that Agia Efimia has integrated tourism well or not. It certainly hasn’t been completely overtaken by a boujie or pretentious vibe like Fiskardo, and still feels like a quiet and authentic spot. For a visitor, it’s a great mix of tourist amenities and local life, but did I sense a bit of unease between its two sides?
From a practical perspective, Agia Efimia is one of those rare places that’s small enough to walk around easily and quickly, but is not dead quiet. And it has plenty of comfortable accommodation options, including hotels and villas that are a short walk from the tavernas.
What it doesn’t have is big beaches. There are a couple of places you can get in the water for a swim, but if you want to spend all day on the beach you’ll have to travel. You’ll need a car to get the best of the area, but there’s enough to do even if you don’t want to drive. The coastal scenery in this part of the island is absolutely incredible, and the boat trips are top-notch.
Overall, it’s a nice place. And I would go back, but I’d definitely stay somewhere with a pool to counteract the lack of beach. For a longer trip without a car, I’d probably prefer to stay in Fiskardo or Sami which are bigger and have more going on. If you’re a beach person, you might want to look at Katelios and Lourdas instead. With the yachting and the lack of beach, it tends to attract a slightly older crowd with lots of loyal returners.
What’s the beach like?
There is a small strip of sand/shingle beach in the middle of Agia Efimia, but it’s very narrow and is also right next to the harbour. You will see locals swimming here, but personally I’d keep walking past the harbour for a couple of swim spots which are much nicer and also more separated from the boats and
But closer to the town are a couple of nice spots – if you walk along the marina and keep heading along the coast you’ll reach Elies, which is a small rocky swim spot, and a tiny beach Lithovatis. It has the good kind of pebbles. The same big, smooth, round, white pebbles that you get on the island’s most scenic beaches. You can get away without sea shoes here, although there are sometimes sea urchins. The bright whiteness of the pebbles means the water is a gorgeous turquoise colour, delicious for swimming. But it’s small and unorganised, better for a quick dip than spending the whole day.
Most people visiting the area rent a car and spend serious beach time a bit further away – as well as Antisamos, you have Ellinika and Agia Paraskevi to the south, and some stunning wild beaches like Kapsolimionas, Chorgota and Giagana to the north. The coastline here is rugged with lots of hidden coves – the best way to explore it is with a private boat rental for the day.
Activities and amenities
The best thing about this part of Kefalonia is its gorgeous coastline, and you can find a couple of different ways to explore it here.
One of the island’s main dive centres – Aquatic Scuba Diving – is located in Agia Efimia, and they organise beginner sessions.
Some of Kefalonia’s best sights are only a short drive away – Melissani Lake and Drogerati Caves, Antisamos Beach (the location most associated with the filming of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin), Karavolmylos Watermill, Fiskardo, Assos, and Myrtos. So it’s a good place to rent a car.
If you don’t want to drive, you might be able to visit some of these places on a bus tour but it’s going to be difficult to get to all of them. I’d contact one of the travel agencies in the village to enquire. It looks like the tour company I used when I was there no longer exists, which is a shame because it was a really great tour (we went to Fiskardo and Assos). There might be tours from other places which pick up from Agia Efimia, but they won’t be available every day and are probably best found.
Boat trips are easier to find, and there are some amazing options:
- Kefalonia Fishing Tours – fishing trips on a traditional caique where you catch your own lunch and cook it in a hidden beach cave
- Romantika – a small motor boat which does group day trips that take in some of the prettiest spots around the north coast and Ithaka, including Gidaki Beach which is one of my favourite beaches in Greece.
- Sail the Day – full-day yacht sailing trips to Ithaka with lunch and snorkelling.
- E-Mountain Bike Tours – guided return tours between Agia Efimia and Sami which take in Melissani and Drogerati as well as some village and mountain stops.
- Boulevard/Yellow Boats – hire small boats to explore tiny coves along the coast
Transport and accessibility
The main part of Agia Efimia is flat, but getting down to the small beaches does involve steps or a gentle slope. The village itself is at the bottom of steep winding road and feels quite cut off. It’s expensive to get around by taxi.
Agia Efimia is a 1-hour drive from Kefalonia International Airport. Local agency Greka Travel can arrange taxis and transfers when you’re there.
There is a bus link with Argostoli, but during the summer there’s also an extra bus route between Sami – Karavomylo – Agia Efimia – Divarata – Fiskardo. The frequencies aren’t great (1-2 per day) and the timetable changes on different days of the week, but it is just about possible to use it for a short day trip to Sami or Fiskardo in the summer.
You can find the timetables over on the KTEL Kefalonia website.
Where to stay
The nicest places to stay are around by the small rocky beaches. Kefalonia Bay Palace, and the Odyssey Boutique Hotel. Odyssey is a small 4-star with a great pool overlooking the sea (it’s not directly on the seafront though, there’s a quiet road in front). This is a great location and a short walk from the marina and all its tavernas.
The Kefalonia Bay Palace is further along the same road and requires a steeper walk to get down to the beach and the road. It’s a bit more basic but it does have some small villas with private pools.
If you’re after a swanky villa, there are plenty up in the hills behind, like Ionian Infinity Villas (3 bedrooms). But you’ll also find plenty of self-catered accommodation in the main part of the village behind the beach, like Greka Ionian Suites and Garden Villas which both have a pool, and sea view apartments along the harbour like Veranda Mare.
Read more about Kefalonia:
Where to Stay on Kefalonia: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
Kefalonia – A Relaxed 1 Week Itinerary
7 Things That I Loved About Kefalonia (And 1 That I Didn’t)
How to Day Trip from Kefalonia to Ithaka
10 Most Beautiful Beaches on Kefalonia
All images © The Mediterranean Traveller