The Ionian island of Kefalonia is known for being one of the most beautiful islands in Greece – it’s craggy and mountains, very green, and home to striking beaches such as the iconic Myrtos with its electric blue water. But Kefalonia is also a large island and an awkward shape, so what’s the best way to see everything?
Despite having an international airport, Kefalonia isn’t as developed as the more popular Ionian islands Corfu and Zakynthos. The beaches are mostly pebbly (although there are some great sandy beaches in the south and east), and the rugged terrain has kept building – and roads – to a minimum.
If you’ve seen Captain Corelli’s Mandolin (and I unashamedly love that film, Nicholas Cage isn’t as bad as everyone says…) then you’ll have an idea of just how picturesque Kefalonia can be.
Kefalonia is an island of incredible beauty spots that aren’t well connected by bus or road and don’t lend themselves to an obvious itinerary. For practical purposes, you can divide it into north and south.
It really makes life a lot easier to hire a car on Kefalonia. If you do, then it doesn’t matter where you stay and it’s possible to see the highlights in as little as 3 days. But there’s plenty to see if you longer – particularly as some of the best bits of Kefalonia can only be seen by boat. I recommend you spend at least a week there.
If you enjoy walking then I recommend picking up a copy of Walk & Eat Kefalonia.
WITH A RENTAL CAR
Here’s what 7 days in Kefalonia with a hire car might look like:
- Day 1 – North Kefalonia
- Day 2 – Antisamos and Melissani
- Day 3 – Argostoli and the south
- Day 4 – Day trip to Ithaca
- Day 5 – Lixouri, Xi and the Paliki Peninsula
- Day 6 – Beach day at Skala
- Day 7 – Inland or boat trip
For car rental check out well-regarded local firms Pefanis and Greekstones.
WITHOUT A RENTAL CAR
If you don’t have a car but want to see as much of the island as possible then I recommend staying Argostoli or Lassi for at least 1 week. It’s very difficult to visit most of Kefalonia’s highlights by public transport (trust me, I tried and failed). Kefalonia’s tourist industry is geared towards the schedule of package holidays and most excursions run on a weekly rota so you’ll need some flexibility in your plans.
To give you a starting point, 7 days in Kefalonia (based in Argostoli/Lassi) without a car might look like this:
- Day 1 – Highlights of Kefalonia excursion
- Day 2 – Beach day at Lassi
- Day 3 – Argostoli and the south
- Day 4 – Day trip to Ithaca
- Day 5 – Boat trip to Paliki Peninsula
- Day 6 – Beach day at Skala
- Day 7 – Boat trip
The main tour companies offering excursions are:
- From Argostoli/Lassi: see KCG Travel
- From Argostoli/Skala: see Kefalonia Excursions
- From Lassi/Skala/Katelios: see Panem Tours
- From Agia Efimia/Sami/Karavomilos: see Avgerinos Travel Experience
Check the KTEL website for bus timetables.
Some boat trips are:
If you’re a total beach hound and just want to fly and flop then stay on the south coast which has sandier beaches and just take one or two excursions. The most beautiful part of Kefalonia is the north but it’s difficult to see the rest of the island from here. For more information on towns and villages see Where to Stay on Kefalonia: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide.
NORTH KEFALONIA
The northern tip of Kefalonia is the most attractive part of the island, with pretty villages and jaw-dropping beaches.
- The beautiful village of Assos
- Myrtos beach
- The harbour village of Fiskardo
They are all relatively close together and easily combined into a day trip by car or on an excursion. However, they are not connected by public transport so it’s impossible to see all of them in one day by bus, although you can visit them individually for the day.
Don’t leave Kefalonia without seeing this part of the island. The villages are two remaining examples of Kefalonia’s original architecture with its Venetian influence. Assos is tiny and you probably couldn’t imagine a prettier place if you tried. I like it best at the end of the day when the tour groups have gone – swimming at Assos is a blissful treat, especially when followed by a late afternoon ‘strawbecco’ at Nefeli in the sun.
Fiskardo is handsome and cosmopolitan. It’s the buzziest part of the island, with posh bars and restaurants to match. If you’re driving, it’s worth aiming for Fiskardo before the lunchtime tour groups arrive at 1 pm.
Myrtos beach is just as stunning as all the photos – no wonder it’s generally considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece, with electric blue water and bright white pebbles. It’s busier from midday onwards when the beach is out of shadow and sunbathers decamp here for the day. Myrtos is also west-facing so has spectacular sunsets.
These are some of the main attractions on the island so expect crowds.
ANTISAMOS, MELISSANI AND DROGARATI
Antisamos is the famous ‘Captain Corelli’ beach and is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. It’s a pebble beach though, not sand – and it’s also not quite the untouched paradise from the film though. Expect a beach bar, sunloungers, and watersports in the high summer. It’s still worth a visit if you’re a fan of the film, or of beaches, and you can also walk up to the Acropolis of Ancient Sami if you’re feeling active.
The beach is 10 minutes in the car from the town of Sami, and an hour on foot. There are two other attractions close by – the shimmering Melissani blue cave, and ancient Drogerati Caves, Unfortunately, buses to and from Sami are infrequent, even in high summer. You’re more likely to find a bus excursion or boat trip that includes Melissani as part of its itinerary.
If you’re determined to do this by public transport then it’s better to stay in Sami overnight and budget for a few taxis.
A rental car allows you to also take in the watermills at nearby Karavomilos and dinner at Aghia Efimia.
ARGOSTOLI AND THE SOUTH
The south of Kefalonia has a significantly different landscape and feel. Highlights include:
- Argostoli and its turtles
- Fanari Lighthouse
- Beaches at Lassi, Svoronata, and Pessada
If you can, get to Argostoli before 9 am to see the turtles follow fishermen into the harbour. There are usually conservation volunteers around, happy to chat with the general public and educate about these magnificent creatures. Just opposite the harbour are several great bakeries.
You can take a stroll around the Fanari Peninsula to the lighthouse – it takes around 1 hour and there are a few small pebble coves for a dip if it gets too hot. The end of the walk brings you to the Lassi area where there are plenty of tavernas. Do yourself a favour and have lunch at Kamaroules Stamatelatos near Gradakia beach, a taverna tucked away underneath pines by the shore. There is a lot of mediocre tourist fare in Lassi but this was some of the best food I ate on Kefalonia.
From here Lassi is nearby for a lazy afternoon on the beach – they get sandier the further along you go. If you have a car you can continue past Lassi to quieter beaches at Ammes or Pessada. Gentilini Winery is on the way and offers tasting flights of local Kefalonian varieties as well as bottles to buy for later (bagsy not the designated driver).
Argostoli is not the most handsome town in Greece. Most of the buildings are modern, having been rebuilt after the devastation of the 1953 earthquake. It’s a town better seen at night than day. During the day it feels sleepy and dusty, but from 8 pm onwards it begins to come alive. There’s a long street of tourist shops and souvenirs, bars and restaurants, and the presence of a superyacht marina nearby ensures a decent calibre of cocktail bars near the waterfront.
DAY TRIP TO ITHACA
Ithaca is Kefalonia’s smaller sister island off its northern coast. As you drive along the coastal road opposite Ithaca it’s clear that they were once part of the same land-mass of green-tipped mountain tops.
It’s definitely worth making the journey over to Ithaca for the day if you have time. It has a similar feel to north Kefalonia with its picturesque villages and dramatic coastline, but minus most of the crowds. It’s not entirely untouristy though – the yachties love it.
For more information see How to Day Trip from Kefalonia to Ithaca.
BEACH HOPPING AROUND SKALA
No trip to a Greek island is complete without some dedicated beach time, so I’m sure you want to know where to find the best beaches. The most dramatic and beautiful are the steep cliff beaches like Myrtos on the north-west coast, however the sandiest beaches are on the east coast around Skala.
Skala is a popular (though laid-back) beach resort town and has a long stretch of rough sand beach. Behind the beach is the main road lined with hotels, beach bars, tavernas, and everything else you need, as well as many tall pines which provide some welcome shade and add a pleasant vibe. You can reach Skala by bus from Argostoli which also stops at some of the smaller resorts.
There are a few scenic bays along the road to Poros. South of Skala is Kaminia Beach which is quieter, wilder, and less developed thanks to the presence of Caretta Caretta turtles who favour it as a nesting zone.
Back on the road west to Argostoli, you will pass the small beach villages of Katelios and Lourdata and the rocky beach at Pessada. Lourdata is especially worth a beach/swim/eat stop.
LIXOURI AND THE PALIKI PENINSULA
From Argostoli, you can hop on a very frequent ferry across the water to Lixouri, the main town of the Paliki Peninsula. It feels like a mirror image of Argostoli but smaller and less touristy. The crossing is just a couple of euros and the boats leave every 15 minutes or so from the main harbour in Argostoli.
Paliki feels geologically different to the rest of the island and it has some intriguing beaches, the most well-known of which is Xi (pictured below) with its orange clay sand.
Drivers can explore some of the wilder beaches such as Petani, which is similar to Myrtos but less busy, and Platia Ammos (the beach itself is currently closed so you’ll have to make do with the viewpoint).
In high season buses run from Argostoli to Xi. Sometimes you can also find bus tours around the Paliki Peninsula or boat trips from Argostoli which stop at some of the beaches and include a BBQ lunch.
Read more:
10 Most Beautiful Beaches on Kefalonia
Where to Stay on Kefalonia: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
Fiskardo, Kefalonia’s Venetian Harbour Village
How to Day Trip from Kefalonia to Ithaca
Kefalonia – 10 Tips from a Local
Where to Stay on Zakynthos: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
Where to Stay on Corfu: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
Where to Stay on Lefkada: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
Where to Stay on Skiathos: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
Where to Stay on Crete: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
10 Most Beautiful Beaches in the Ionian Islands
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Image credits:
Antisamos © miladavidovic / Adobe Stock
Xi © kwasny221 / Adobe Stock
All other images © The Mediterranean Traveller