What's Lefkada Like? 7 Things I Loved (And 4 That I Didn't)

I’m a big fan of lush green islands, and I’d heard good things about Lefkada from family members who had been and enjoyed it, so I was pretty excited by the time I finally got around to visiting.

I’d already been to the other main islands in the Ionians, which is one of my favourite areas of the Med. Although you can fly there (well, to Preveza which is connected by road), Lefkada still feels a little bit under the radar. Maybe this is changing a bit with the popularity of its beaches on Instagram, and the sunset cafes that are popping up to make the most of its views, but generally it feels like somewhere that hasn’t changed too much over the past few decades.

So is Lefkada worth visiting? How does it compare to other islands?

I really enjoyed the overall vibe on Lefkada and would definitely go back. It’s somewhere that I instantly felt relaxed, which is one of my key points when assessing how much I love an island or destination. Does it make my shoulders drop? And Lefkada definitely did.

It has a slightly different vibe to the other main Ionians – not so much of that mass market package-holiday vibe you find on Corfu and Zakynthos, and not fancy like Paxos and Ithaka. It’s smaller and much easier to get around than Kefalonia (although not entirely without its difficulties), but it does have fewer attractions and sights beyond its beaches and boat trips.

If you enjoy nature and activities, great views, and unpretentious coastal resorts, I think you’ll love Lefkada. If you’re a fan of sandy beaches and fancy hotels, you’re better off looking at Corfu or Kefalonia.

Read on for a bit more detail, as I think for the right person the pros will definitely outweigh the cons:

The Lush Green Scenery

For me, a holiday isn’t really a holiday without the scent of pine and the sound of cicadas. I love swimming in tiny coves enveloped by lush hills. I love a coastal hike and that fresh smell you get morning after rain. And I love the emerald colour of the water as it reflects its surroundings. Although I do really love the Cycladic Islands, there’s just something really special about landscapes like this.

All of the Ionian Islands are great for green scenery, and Corfu especially has that mix of rugged mountains and tall cypress trees which is particularly alluring, but Lefkada also surrounded by lots of smaller islands which adds an extra element to its landscape. Everyone talks about the cliff beaches, but the views on the east and south coasts across the islands and to the mainland are spectacular, and I really enjoyed the east coast beaches for swimming. The water is calmer and the backdrop is beautiful.

Epic Cliff Beaches

Lefkada is best-known for its dramatic cliff beaches like Egremni and Porto Katsiki. Although you do find them on the other islands in the Ionian too (as well as some parts of the Italian coast), the main cliff beaches here are pretty accessible by both boat and road, and also organised with sun loungers and cafe facilities, making it a fun day out.

The west coast of Lefkada is almost entirely lined by cliff beaches – steep drops with dazzling white pebbles and bright turquoise waters.

The reason the sea is so turquoise has nothing to do with the water, but with the geology of the rocks – fine calcium carbonate particles act like a natural reflector, especially in shallow seas over the bright white pebbles of the seabed. Don’t expect to be able to snorkel here though – the water gets deep quickly and the waves can be ferocious. You’ve got to enjoy being battered to spend the day on these beaches. Personally, whilst I love the visuals, I prefer a beach with shade and calmer seas so I’m happier on the east coast, but I know my brother would love these beaches.

If you have a car, you can also visit the cafes with amazing sunset views from the top of the cliffs. FLY ME Sun & Stars Bar and Panorama Cafe would be my picks. Just be aware that driving to these beaches involves steep hairpins, dirt tracks, and crazy parking (you’ll need t

Vasiliki

Vasiliki is a popular beach town on the south coast which was one of my favourite spots on the island. If I had to recommend a versatile place to stay in Lefkada, it would be Vasiliki.

It’s divided into two parts – the beach side, home to various watersports and activities (windsurfing, dinghy sailing, wingfoil, SUP, yoga, pilates), and the rest of the town which is concentrated around the harbour. It’s not one of the better beaches on the island for pure beach lazing (I preferred the smaller beach beyond the harbour), but there’s certainly lots to do – and plenty of happy hours.

But it’s the harbour that wins it for me. The waterfront is lined with trees and outdoor seating for the cafes and tavernas, with small fishing boats bobbing in its bright turquoise waters. It’s small but it’s the kind of place you can cafe-hop all day.

Boat trips from the harbour will take you to Agiofili and on 3 Island Cruises that call at Porto Katsiki and Egremni. And there’s a small car ferry that runs regularly across to Fiskardo – this would be a great combination of places for a trip. Add in Ithaka and you have three of the most stunning areas in the Ionian.

Read more: A Quick Guide to Vasiliki

Amazing Boat Trips

So the boat trips deserve their own section. Personally, I think it’s a waste to visit Lefkada and not indulge in a few boat trips around the coast and its surrounding islands.

The harbour at Nydri is the main centre for boat trips, it’s definitely the place to stay if boat trips are your focus.

If you want to visit the west coast cliff beaches by boat, these are the most popular options:

From Agios Nikitas, you can hike or take the water taxi to Milos Beach (you can also get a bus to Kathisma from here)
From Nydri and Vasiliki, there are boat trips to Porto Katsiki, Egremni, and Agiofili
From Nydri, the 7 Islands Cruise which includes Porto Katsiki and Egremni
From Nydri, the Forgotten Islands Cruise
From Vasiliki, the 3 Islands Cruise which includes Porto Katsiki and Egremni
From Vasiliki, the water taxi to Agiofili

Most of the popular boat trips are on big motor boats that have a bar, they’ll let you off and then pick you up a few hours later.

If you prefer something a little more relaxed and inclusive, I definitely recommend the MS Christina from Nydri which is one of the best boat trips I’ve taken. We stopped at Kalamos and Kastos, some incredible turquoise waters, and had a delicious lunch on the beach of an uninhabited island. These gulet boats make the best day trips in my opinion – there’s always enough space for everyone to have a sun lounger and some shade, and the food is always great.

Read more: A Quick Guide to Nydri

Perigiali Beach

I’m fortunate enough to visit a lot of beaches and beach resorts for this site. Occasionally, I get the feeling that it’s somewhere I could stay for a long time. Perigiali is one of those places – it was definitely my favourite beach to spend all day on. It’s the northern beach in Nydri, and much nicer than the rest of the town in my opinion (which I find a bit busy and commercial). A lot of the beaches on the east coast are very narrow but this one’s not too bad, and it doesn’t get as busy as the rest of the town.

It’s shady, relaxed, and has a family-friendly vibe. There are a few places to eat, both along the beach and the main road. There were plenty of places in Lefkada that I liked, but this is the one I’d want to come back for a holiday.

If you stay here you get all the benefits of Nydri (proximity to boat trips, hike to the waterfalls, good bus links, ferry to Meganisi) but without the crowds.

Read more: A Quick Guide to Nydri

A Day Trip to Meganisi

If you stay anywhere near Nydri, you should definitely nip over to the island of Meganisi. The ferry is really easy, frequent, and cheap, so it’s got to be one of the easiest island day trips you can make in Greece. Actually, you don’t even need to spend a whole day. The only downside is the walk up to Spartochori if it’s hot.

But there’s a really nice beach bar called Agrios which is just along the coast from the ferry harbour, and is worth popping over for alone because it’s nicer than any beach club I found in Lefkada. If you’re finding Nydri a bit busy and cramped, Meganisi is the antidote.

The Level of Tourism

I visited Lefkada in early July and was pleasantly surprised how quiet it was. It wasn’t dead, for sure, especially not in Nydri or Agios Nikitas which both felt crowded enough. But it attracts a slightly different crowd to Corfu, Kefalonia, and Zakynthos – the level of package tourism, cruise ship arrivals, and resort hotels is nowhere near the other Ionian Islands. It’s a very laid-back place with a lot of independent travellers and domestic tourists. Greeks and Balkans can drive here directly, and Italians come via the mainland ferry trip. There’s a big windsurfing crowd.

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So, those are the upsides of visiting Lefkada. How about the downsides?

Lack of Historic Towns

Small boats in the big marina at Lefkada Town. — Lefkada Town.

So, whilst I liked Perigiali Beach and Vasiliki, and Nikiana and Lygia are quite sweet places too, none of them really check the box for somewhere that’s atmospheric and big enough to stroll around in the evenings. Nydri is too busy and commercialised for me, although the boat trips are great. As a solo traveller, I didn’t have the best experience in some of the tavernas there.

And Lefkada Town is a fairly charmless working place. I’m sure it has a few good places to eat, and there’s a big marina so it’s always full of yachts, but it’s definitely not a must-see or somewhere that I’d want to stay unless I had a particular reason. It’s nowhere near as nice as Argostoli on Kefalonia, for example, or Zakynthos Town, and there’s definitely nowhere with historic charm like Fiskardo, Assos, Kassiopi, or Corfu Town on the island.

Apparently some of the inland villages are really nice – Karya, Exanthia and Egklouvi are a few worth checking out – but by bus I just couldn’t work it into my schedule on this trip.

Difficult to Get Around By Bus

As someone who doesn’t like to rent cars abroad, this was one of the major downsides for me. It’s not the worst bus service I’ve experienced on a Greek island, that’s for sure. It works well travelling up and down the east coast, basically between Nydri and Lefkada Town.

But you can’t really use it for getting to the beaches on the west coast (with the exception of Kathisma and Mylos), you’ll have to use boat trips for those. You can’t stay in one base on Lefkada and visit all the beaches without a car. There’s no way to explore the interior. Some of the prettiest parts of the south of the island are also impossible to reach by bus.

It’s a shame there’s no travel agency offering bus tours around the island which take in a few beaches and villages, but perhaps it’s a good thing that Lefkada doesn’t have that level of tourism

The nearest airport is Preveza, which is a 45-60 minute drive. There is a bus link but it’s much easier (though not particularly cheap) to get a taxi.

No Beach Resorts with Amazing Beaches

This is probably what keeps the level of tourism in Lefkada manageable so perhaps it belongs in the pros list, but there are no resort areas in Lefkada right on amazing sandy beaches like the ones you find in Corfu, Zakynthos, and Kefalonia.

The most popular place to stay right by the beach is Agios Nikitas, but I personally found it cramped and claustrophobic (although it is pretty and I do recommend visiting).

All of the resort town beaches are narrow and pebbley, often have the main road running alongside, and the towns themselves are small. There’s certainly no large-scale family tourism. I really like the beaches, and there are lots of beautiful small coves to discover, but it’s not for everyone.

Lack of Upmarket Hotel Options

If you prefer to stay in villas or traditional Greek hotels then you’ll find plenty of options here, but bougie hotels are still thin on the ground. My ideal setup is a boutique hotel close to the water, so there aren’t many places here that excite me.

The wave of hotel gentrification hasn’t happened yet, though surely it’s only a matter of time. The good news is that it’s usually very good value. Vasiliki has some more interesting options, aimed at the watersports and active crowd, and i you have a car you can find some single units inland that have been nicely done up. But, overall, it’s not the kind of place where you come for swanky hotels. The other Ionian Islands have a much better choice.

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