A Quick Guide to Mytilini, Lesvos | The Mediterranean Traveller

Thinking of visiting Mytilini on the Greek island of Lesvos? Here’s what to expect from this vibrant little city.

Where is it?

Mytilini is on the east of Lesvos, one of the largest islands in the Aegean.

What’s the vibe like?

Mytilini is not a well-known destination amongst international travellers. The name recognition is not strong, even if you’ve heard of Lesvos the island or some of its more famous destinations such as Molyvos or Petra.

That gives Mytilini the benefit of surprise.

It’s a small city with a population of around 60,000, although in Greek island terms that’s a pretty big settlement. It’s a port town and also home to a hub of the University of the Aegean.

Mytilini is built amphitheatrically around its U-shaped harbour. The iconic view is of the harbour Greek Orthodox Church of Agios Therapontas illuminated at night, reflections glittering in the water. Unfortunately for me, it was covered in scaffolding when I visited.

You’ll find visiting yachts in the centre of the harbour, and the more functional port and harbour workings at either end.

The harbourfront has a workaday feel, you’ll find a few cafes around Sappho Square (which is also a bus hub) but nothing special. If you came to Mytilini and only visited the harbour you’d leave disappointed.

The real magic comes when you wander into the backstreets where you’ll find a warren of tavernas, stylish bars, and interesting shops. As is the way on Lesvos, many of the alleyways are covered in wisteria for shade.

The peninsula beyond the harbour is home to an impressive castle, a small beach, and a forested park. The roads in and out of Mytilini are flush with neoclassical mansions and tall palms, harking back to when Lesvos was an important player in the olive oil and soap trade.

It has a youthful and lively vibe, with an alternative edge (a bit like Athens). It’s seeing an increasing number of tourists from Turkey thanks to a new visa-on-arrival scheme for Turkish citizens. I noticed a few restaurants with menus in Turkish, and even had a few dishes with chilli in them – definitely an influence from across the water.

It also reminded me of Ermoupoli on Syros, and Crete’s Heraklion – somewhere with a strong local spirit. It might be a bit rough around the edges for some, but in terms of visuals and atmosphere, it’s a bit more interesting than many Greek towns and cities.

There’s enough to keep you occupied for a day or two – or would make a good longer-term base.

You might be wondering if there’s any sign of the refugee crisis, and the answer is no, not really. Since the fire at Moria camp in 2020 (Moria is just to the north of the city), refugees have been whisked away to a purpose-built facility called a Closed Controlled Access Centres. That’s not to say that conditions have improved much for them, but you’re unlikely to come across any sign of a crisis. The NGOs that filled the welfare and organisation gap in the early days have largely disappeared. The only reminder is the presence of multiple coastguard boats around the island.

Here are some photos from around Mytilini to give you an idea of its vibe:

What’s the beach like?

Mytilini’s beach is called Paralia Tsamakia and is on the far east side of town, beyond the castle. It’s a shingle beach, nothing to write home about in the context of the island, but it’s handy if you’re in town for a while.

Unusually for Greece it is pay-to-enter but it’s run by the municipality so has family-friendly facilities (changing facilities and toilets, beach volleyball courts) as well as sun loungers and a cafe.

If you just want a quick dip there are other spots you can enter the water along the promenade, although they’re more exposed so the sea can get rough.

Activities and amenities

Mytilini’s main historic attraction is its castle, built on a headland overlooking the city. The city doesn’t shout about it however it’s one of the largest castles in the Mediterranean.

Entrance is €3 via Mikras Asias, but its impressive walls and the Lower Castle are visible from the coastal promenade. The Upper Castle is the oldest part and is believed to be built on the site of an acropolis, and possibly dates back as far as the 6th century AD.

Other archaeological sites include the ancient market and ancient theatre.

Along Navmachis Ellis are wooden jetties for fishing boats and a handful of tavernas where you can get fresh seafood whilst watching the sun go down.

Lesvos was part of the Ottoman Empire in 1462 until Greece’s liberation in 1912, and you’ll find some evidence of this dotted around town. Notably towards the top of Ermou is Yalı Cami, Carsi Hammam, and Yeni Mosque. Unfortunately, they’re all in various states of disrepair and closed to the public (part of an ongoing cultural tit-for-tat with Turkey it seems) although you do get a good view from the street. It would be wonderful to see them fully restored and open to the public.

Mytilini’s main commercial street is Ermou and it runs from the northern shore down alongside the harbour. At the north end you’ll find an intriguing cluster of shops – unique jewellery and clothes, bakeries, ceramics, vintage, and food. Towards the centre of town you’ll find more high-street fashion stores. It ends at the Byzantine Museum (closed on Sundays). The area around Ermou is also home to countless small churches.

Mytilini Archaeological Museum is near the ferry port and beach (closed on Tuesdays).

Fans of modern art will want to check out Teriade Museum, it is some way out of the city but worth the taxi ride. Stratis Eleftheriadis – Teriade was an important publisher and critic and the museum houses his impressive personal collection as well as visiting exhibitions.

One thing to note is that whilst Mytilini has plenty of tourist amenities (pharmacies, ATMs, rental agencies, tour agencies), you’ll often find businesses closed in the afternoon for siesta. If it’s a pitstop on a road trip then schedule it for the morning.

Komninaki is where you’ll find cafes/bars for the evening, and most of the tavernas are behind Sappho Square, but for daytime drinks/snacks/killing time, I also like the cafes near Agias Irinis Park south of the harbour.

And if you need a latte and brunch then head to Home #it’s a feeling.

Transport and accessibility

From the airport:

Mytilini International Airport (MJT) is a 10-minute drive from the city centre and cost me €15 in a taxi.

For more information read: A Quick Guide to Mytilini Airport

Public transport:

The main bus station for buses around the island (KTEL Lesvos bus station) is south of the harbour:

Local city buses, including the airport bus, leave from Sappho Square in the middle of the harbour.

For more information read: How to Get Around Lesvos By Bus

The ferry port is on the east side of the harbour. I recommend using Ferryhopper to check routes and prices, but for cross-border tickets I recommend buying from an agency at least the day before, in case of paperwork. I believe you have the option on Ferryhopper to buy in advance pick up your tickets from an agency, but I haven’t personally tried this.

From Mytilini, you can catch ferries to Athens and a few neighbouring islands, and in the summer there may be additional routes to the north of Greece. There are also ferries across the Mytilini Strait to Ayvalık in Turkey, which is possible to do as a day trip.

Important: There is a port tax payable on the way back to Mytilini, for more information read How to Take a Day Trip from Lesvos to Turkey

Accessibility:

The main historic and commercial areas of Mytilini are flat, except the Kastro which is on a hill. Residential areas may be hilly. The ferry port is all ground-level.

As is common in Greek towns and cities, paving is of a variable standard – expect cracks, obstacles, and slippery marble.

Prices

Prices in Mytilini are very reasonable for food/drink and shopping, but hotel prices are on the expensive side due to lack of competition.

Where to stay

As Mytilini is not a common tourist destination, accommodation options are somewhat limited and feel overpriced compared to the rest of the island.

For a short stay in a convenient location, look at the established 3-stars around the harbour:

These are aimed at domestic tourists coming off (or getting on) the ferries and are a bit dated but comfortable.

If that’s not your style, ISSA Hotel is a stylish hostel renovation with private rooms and dorms.

For a longer and less functional stay:

handsome Loriet Hotel set in a historic seaside mansion
modern 4-star resort Heliotrope Hotel
modern suites in a country-style villa Oikies Small Elegant Houses (private plunge pools available)

Mythical Coast Wellness Retreat is a brand-new hotel south of the airport with stylish design and a spa but lacking quality service and details. Not bad for a night at the start or end of a trip if you need parking but it wouldn’t be my choice of location for a longer stay as there’s nothing much in the area.