Favignana is one of Italy’s best-kept island secrets. It’s part of Sicily’s Egadi Islands, a delightful archipelago which is surprisingly easy to reach and makes the perfect mini-island escape.
Here’s what to expect from a trip to Favignana.
Where is it?
The Egadi Islands (also known as the Egadian or Aegadian Islands) are located off the tip of Sicily’s northwest coast, just 16km from the small port city of Trapani. There are also (less frequent) ferries from Marsala.
There are 3 inhabited islands in the Egadi group (Levanzo, Favignana, and Marettimo) as well as 2 uninhabited ones (Formica and Maraone). Egadi means ‘the goat islands’, to give you some idea of the landscape.
Favignana is the biggest and most popular of the three.
What’s the vibe like?
Favignana is a small golden island known for its dazzling swim spots and laid-back charm. It has a big working harbour and much of its wealth came from tuna fishing and tuff quarrying.
Favignana Town is the main settlement and port and is located right in the middle of the island on its north coast. Off to its side is one big hill with a castle on top – an excellent lookout point.
The rest of the island is flat and easy to traverse by bicycle – the most popular mode of transport on Favignana. As you disembark the ferry and wander into the town’s main square, you’ll pass many bike rental agencies who will equip you with wheels and a map by the day or half day.
Most places to eat, drink, and stay on the island are in town. It has a lively yet relaxed barefoot vibe, more popular with young Sicilians than families due to the lack of beaches suitable for small children. There are a few clothing boutiques and hushed cocktail bars tucked away around town.
Favignana Town is quiet during the day when most are off exploring the coast. It’s a popular and easy day trip from Trapani or Marsala.
What to see and do
The name of the game here is to explore the coast and get in those crystal clear turquoise seas, and the easiest way to reach them is to rent a bicycle from one of the many vendors near the ferry port or in town. Rental will cost you a maximum of around €10 per day. E-bikes are available too. The roads are very quiet, you’ll see many more bikes than cars.
Don’t forget to pack a pair of sea shoes as the rocks are very sharp in some places. You can pick up a pair in town if you don’t have any.
Cala Rossa (pictured below) is the most famous of the coastal spots (and also one of the busiest). It’s only a 15-minute ride from town and is often where tourists head first. It’s recognisable for its rock stacks and vibrant blue seas. It gets its name (‘Red Bay’) from the amount of blood allegedly spilled during a naval battle in 241 BC between the Romans and the Phoenicians.
Continuing clockwise from Cala Rossa is Bue Marino and Cala Azzurra. The former is probably the most interesting spot on the island with its weird quarry formations that feel like an open-air maze. Perfect for explorers.
Don’t miss the incredible Giardino dell’Impossible – a unique botanical garden set in a maze of rocks. It’s well worth the detour inland.
For lunch, you can stop at Lido Burrone in the middle of the south coast where you’ll find a small organised sandy beach with sun loungers and a snack bar. There are a few more scallops of sand in rocky coves nearby such as Spiaggia di Calamoni and Marasolo. And it’s not far to cycle back into town if you want a more substantial meal.
Heading out west the landscape becomes quieter, the rocks darker, and the coastline not so dramatic.
Alternatively, you can head back along the north coast from Cala Rossa, calling in at Scalo Cavallo, Cala San Nicola, Cala Graziosa, and Sea Club Favignana.
If cycling isn’t an option then there are several buses a day around the island, and plenty of boat tours depart from the harbour too.
The beautiful Palazzo Florio next to the harbour is now an administrative building but it’s possible to enter and see some exhibits telling the story of the Florio family.
Water-based activities including snorkelling, scuba diving, fishing, boat rental, boat tours, and kayaking are easy to arrange on the island. And it’s possible to nip over to neighbouring islands Levanzo and Marettimo if you’re here for more than a day.
It’s possible to climb up to the hilltop Santa Caterina castle at cooler times of day and year. It takes around 45 minutes.
What’s the beach like?
Most of Favignana’s coastline is sandstone rocks, similar to Malta, with intriguing formations from quarrying activity along the east coast in particular (head to Bue Marina if this interests you).
This is where you’ll find impeccable turquoise seas next to golden rocks and sea caves. Some require agility and scrambling to access the sea.
Favignana doesn’t have any big sandy beaches or the normal beach clubs. But there are a few small coves with fine sands and shallow waves. Lido Burrone is the biggest.
But the easiest one to reach is the town beach, Spiaggia Praia (pictured below), next to the old Florio tuna factory which is now a museum. Next door is Camparia, an old boat house that has been converted into a gorgeous (if expensive) beach club and restaurant.
How to get there?
Favignana is a short ferry ride from the port city of Trapani on Sicily’s northwest coast.
The closest airport is Trapani-Birgi (TPS), a small regional airport which has a few domestic and European routes. There are buses from the airport that run right to Trapani port or taxi is around €35 and takes 25-30 minutes.
Palermo Falcone Borsellino Airport (PMO) is only 1 hour away from Trapani by road. There are buses from Palermo airport direct to Trapani port.
The airport bus drops you at Trapani’s Fast Ferry Terminal which makes connecting simple. It’s a small modern single-story terminal right next to the road. Here you’ll find a cafe, toilets, and the ticket office.
The ferries run every half an hour over the summer. You can purchase tickets at the ticket office, at any travel agency in town, or online in advance. This is recommended at busy times such as the peak summer and weekends. I recommend using Ferryhopper to buy tickets in advance. A single ticket from Trapani to Favignana is around €10 and the journey takes as little as 25 minutes (depending on the route).
The fast ferries are run by Liberty Lines and they also have a route from nearby Marsala, although they’re not as frequent.
If you’re taking a car over you’ll need the car ferry from Trapani run by Siremar.
For more information read: How to Get to the Egadi Islands
How to get around
As you will have gathered by now, it’s customary (and good value) to rent a bike for your time in Favignana.
If bikes aren’t an option for you, there should be no problem organising a taxi, scooter, or car rental near the ferry port.
There are hints online that a bus service once existed but no mentions of it in the past year. I recommend asking a local travel agency or your chosen accommodation for up-to-date information.
Accessibility:
The main town is mostly flat with a slight incline on the edges.
The rocky beaches and platforms require some scrambling and climbing to explore and reach the water. But the town beach is easy to access – it has no steps and a road runs alongside it.
Prices
I found prices on Favignana average for a Sicilian coastal resort. Be warned that it gets very busy in the peak summer months and you’ll need to book accommodation, restaurants, and any other activities well in advance.
Where to eat
Don’t miss a plate of frascatole or couscous with lobster. Cuscousera Cibarie Mediterranee has seafood couscous and other treats like deep-fried ravioli to take away (though there are a few tables outside).
Top tables in town to check out include SottoSale and Formica.
Where to stay
Being one of the more bohemian places in Sicily, Favignana is not short of lovely places to stay. Most visitors will want to stay close to Favignana Town for the dining options.
For simple modern rooms near Favignana Town check out Gli Archi Garden Rooms.
La Cava di Sasà is a guesthouse with traditional vibes.
La Casa dell’Arancio is an airy renovation with a hint of Moroccan decor.
I Pretti is a hotel with a very central location
If you’re happy to be outside town and would prefer a resort-style hotel then look at Cave Bianche in the southwest with a pool and hot tub in its unique quarry setting.
Top choice for foodies should be Mangia’s Favignana Resort by the sea in the southwest, or small boutique hotel Dimora Cala del Pozzo in the west.
Read more about Sicily:
Where to Stay in Sicily: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
10 Most Beautiful Beaches in Sicily
A Quick Guide to San Vito Lo Capo
Image credits:
Cala Rossa: © Davide D. Phstock / Adobe Stock
All other photos © The Mediterranean Traveller