Levanzo is one of Italy’s most beautiful islands. This little gem is part of Sicily’s Egadi Islands, a pocket-sized archipelago which is surprisingly easy to reach and well worth the trip.
Here’s what to expect from a trip to Levanzo.
Where is it?
The Egadi Islands (also known as the Egadian or Aegadian Islands) are located off the tip of Sicily’s northwest coast, just 16km from the small port city of Trapani. There are also (less frequent) ferries from Marsala.
There are 3 inhabited islands in the Egadi group (Levanzo, Favignana, and Marettimo) as well as 2 uninhabited ones (Formica and Maraone). Egadi means ‘the goat islands’, to give you some idea of the landscape.
Levanzo is the smallest and quietest of the three.
What’s the vibe like?
Levanzo is best known for its incredibly picturesque village Cala Dogana. This is the main (and only) village, and where the ferry docks. It’s quite a sight to behold as the ferry enters the harbour with its startling turquoise seas.
The village is full of whitewashed buildings (although most are more like a pale gold), their shutters and doors painted a brilliant blue, and fishing boats pulled up onto the sliver of beach. It wouldn’t look out of place on a postcard from Greece.
It’s a small, dry, and mountainous island, with just a handful of amenities and few roads. Once the daytrippers have left it’s very quiet. The kind of place to come if you enjoy a sense of remoteness and simplicity.
What to see and do
The main activity on Levanzo is simply enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. It’s much quieter than most Italian coastal areas – there are no lidos or parties here. No jetskies. It takes all of 5 minutes to walk around Cala Dogana.
When you disembark the ferry you’ll see a few posters advertising services for tourists – private boat rentals, snorkelling, diving, and water taxis. There are a few coves you can explore on foot.
Divers will want to check out the underwater archaeological site near Punta Altarella with remains of a shipwreck carrying amphorae.
The island is too small for organised group boat trips but if you’re staying in Trapani or Marsala you can find plenty of boats offering half or full-day trips to the Egadi Islands. These usually take in swim stops at Favignana and Levanzo. You can find a few online – here’s an example.
There’s a cave (Grotto Genovese) on the west coast with Neolithic and Paleolithic paintings. It can only be visited on a guided tour – ask your accommodation about booking in advance.
Dinner choices are limited to a small handful of cafe-restaurants in the harbour as well as a bakery or two. Opening hours can be limited so if you’re just visiting the island for an hour or two then you might want to have backup snacks in your bag just in case.
What’s the beach like?
The closest thing Levanzo has to a sandy beach is the one right in the middle of the harbour. It’s narrow and stoney and surrounded by fishing boats, so not the most relaxing experience, but on here calm day plenty of tourists take to the water.
Elsewhere on the island, there are some rocky coves. But entering the water can be tricky, especially without sea shoes. Boat cruises are popular around here so you can jump right into that electric blue water.
It’s a 20-minute walk from the harbour around to Cala Faraglione (pictured below) where you’ll find a rocky islet shaped like a jellyfish. Watch out for slippery rocks as you head down to the water.
Or you can head east from the harbour to Cala Fredda and Cala Minnola, the latter is particularly pretty and often frequented by the tourist boats.
Cala Tramontana is a long steep walk on the other side of the island so best visited by boat.
How to get there?
The best place to take the ferry to Levanzo is Trapani.
The closest airport is Trapani-Birgi (TPS), a small regional airport which has a few domestic and European routes. There are buses from the airport that run right to Trapani port – see timetables for more information. Or a taxi is around €35 and takes 25-30 minutes.
Palermo Falcone Borsellino Airport (PMO) is only 1 hour away from Trapani by road. There are buses from Palermo airport direct to Trapani port. See the airport website for more information.
The main bus stop for Trapani’s old quarter is right next to the Fast Ferry Terminal which makes it very easy to connect. It’s a small modern single-story terminal (pictured below) right next to the road. Here you’ll find a cafe, toilets, and the ticket office.
You can purchase tickets at the ticket office, at any travel agency in town, or online in advance. This is recommended at busy times such as the peak summer and weekends.
I use Ferryhopper to buy ferry tickets if I know when I want to travel. But the ferries run every half an hour over the summer and I saw plenty of people queuing.
The fast ferries are run by Liberty Lines and they also run ferries from nearby Marsala, although they’re not as frequent.
For more information read: How to Get to the Egadi Islands
How to get around
Levanzo is a tiny island and you don’t need to worry about hiring transport here. All of the accommodation is around the harbour, or a maximum of 15 minutes’ walk away.
Some of the paths to the coves are dirt tracks with only a slight incline. Watch out for falling rocks as the surrounding hills are steep.
Where to stay
Most people are content with a day trip to Levanzo, but if you’re looking for a quiet luxury getaway there’s Dolcevita Egadi Eco Resort by Klabhouse up in the hills behind the harbour. It’s a beautiful small 4-star resort with a pool and Sicilian touches in its airy decor.
Looking for something simpler? There are several traditional guesthouses and holiday homes around the harbour. The crisp modern rooms by the port at Fenici Island Apartments stand out.
The limited amount of accommodation means it does book up quickly in the peak months.
Read more about Sicily:
Where to Stay in Sicily: Ultimate Beach Resort Guide
10 Most Beautiful Beaches in Sicily
A Quick Guide to San Vito Lo Capo
Image credits: All photos © The Mediterranean Traveller